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Lagginhorn questions

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Lagginhorn questions

Postby HungarySagehen » Wed Jul 01, 2009 5:24 pm

Been reading the climber's log here in summitpost about the Lagginhorn-
I might be going to Valais either this weekend or in about a week, depends on my schedule.
Seems like it's mostly rock hiking/scrambling with some snow near the time. Any ideas on the necessity of crampons and an axe at this time of year?
Any advice would be really appreciated, thanks

Looks like the weather should be at least decent this weekend
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Re: Lagginhorn questions

Postby PeterCorneliusSpaeth » Wed Jul 01, 2009 5:50 pm

HungarySagehen wrote:Been reading the climber's log here in summitpost about the Lagginhorn-
I might be going to Valais either this weekend or in about a week, depends on my schedule.
Seems like it's mostly rock hiking/scrambling with some snow near the time. Any ideas on the necessity of crampons and an axe at this time of year?
Any advice would be really appreciated, thanks

Looks like the weather should be at least decent this weekend


After climbing the south ridge we downclimbed the normal route (west ridge) last August. THere was not too much snow and ice, so I remember it being a (very) large pile of scree with some ugly icy passages. Though we did not need crampons we had our axes handy anyhow. I assume, this time year you will still have lots of snow until mid July. Anyhow axe and crampons should allways be with you on mountains like this. Conditions can vary a lot.

Peter
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Re: Lagginhorn questions

Postby cb294 » Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:12 pm

HungarySagehen wrote:Been reading the climber's log here in summitpost about the Lagginhorn-
I might be going to Valais either this weekend or in about a week, depends on my schedule.
Seems like it's mostly rock hiking/scrambling with some snow near the time. Any ideas on the necessity of crampons and an axe at this time of year?
Any advice would be really appreciated, thanks

Looks like the weather should be at least decent this weekend


For current weather and snow conditions, check the webcam at

http://www.saas-fee.ch/de/livecam.cfm

The center right image with the view from Kreuzboden to Hohsaas shows Lagginhorn west face.

Although one cannot see the summit, judging from the amount of snow in the face there should be plenty of snow at the end of the ridge. Definitely crampons and ice axe conditions, but it is really not very difficult: One mildly exposed UIAA grad II step, lots of scambling over blocky ground, and a moderately steep summit snowfield, where a slip will kill you

On the DAV website they predict a rather high risk of thunderstorms for the weekend (for whatever that's worth). So, the one day option using the Hohsaas cablecar is probably a bit unsafe (not only bad style) and you will probably need an early start from Weissmies hut to be back down in time.

CB
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Re: Lagginhorn questions

Postby Flachlandtiroler » Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:37 pm

HungarySagehen wrote:Any ideas on the necessity of crampons and an axe at this time of year?

My idea is *always* bring crampons+axe for such a kind of trip.

Even if someone would have suggested to leave it at home due to very dry conditions (which isn't the case) -- think of standing before a tiny little ice slab of only several meters and having to quit; only because of you listening to someone unknown in an internet forum and saving one or two kilogramms in your rucksack :wink:

Finally, even if you're firm with steeper snow (40°) it just takes a little slip and without ice axe you're helpless :?

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Postby P. Vis » Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:58 pm

Climbed it twice,2004/2008 both times i needed axe and crampons , its not difficult, good views and good fun.

Near the top there's an icefield the rest is easy scrambling. Normal route.

You can choose from the hut for the complete ridgeroute (keep to the left) from the hut or first part over a small glacier (right of the hut)
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Postby P. Vis » Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:11 pm

+/- 150 mtrs straight above the Weismiesshut there's a flat area.
People have been camping there before so there are windprotection walls etc.
This on the route towards lagginhorn/weismiess.
But...what about the Glocknerplans..?
:twisted:

Are they out the window or what? :?:

The Lagginhorn / Weismies are hardly trainingmountains for the Glockner studlridge
By the way, the best way to do the Weismiess is by crossing it, from the Almagellerhut to the Weismiesshut.(beautifull tour, not difficult too.

The gear you will need is the standard glaciergear as mentioned before.

Also you can do the Weismiess from the bivy over the NE ridge, its AD III+.
Very good training for the Glockner.
From the Weismiess hut you can also climb the Jegihorn.

Don't forget to visit the waterpark at kreuzboden

:D :D
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Postby P. Vis » Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:52 pm

Ok, clear.
If you take the time to acclimatize it will be ok.

Question, why don't you hike up from Saas-almagell to the almagellerhutte, sleep there, take a stove, (nice and cheap, did it myself) and some quick meals?
The crossing of the Weismiess is no more then II degree.

Take all the time to go to the hut and the next day hike up to the zwischbergenpas and go up to the Weismiess, cross it and descent the normal(very boring) glacier route, sleep in the Weismiesshut, cook for youself and the next day take the ridgeroute up the Lagginhorn and descent the glacierroute.

Then in kreuzboden hire a couple of trottinettes(the cablecompany will take care of your backpacks and sent them to the valley) and race down, did it whit my son, (after we did the lagginhorn)so much fun and a day to spare.


:D :D :D
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Postby P. Vis » Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:14 pm

I hope i gave you some idea of a nice trip, later you'll regret the fact that you did'nt cross the Weismiess and did'nt take the ridgeroute as well as the glacier of lagginhorn.

But what do i know :o

You're schedule looks like a workingschedule, but i hope you have a nice shortbreak in the Weismiessgroup :D

Good luck !!
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Postby P. Vis » Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:40 pm

Damn, for an selfsupporting-climber you ask a lot of questions.

There are plenty of tourist-shops or at the COOP supermarket.

The rest you have to do yourself ok?
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