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Longs Peak conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
 

Longs Peak conditions

Postby outofstep80 » Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:45 pm

Wondering if anyone is going up Lamp Slide on Keiner’s in the next few weeks. Looking for condition as I’m heading out in about 4 weeks. I’m thinking it will probably be pretty icy but am trying to confirm for equipment purposes. Can I get by with a mountaineering axe and aluminum crampons or should I have a more aggressive crampon, ice tools, ice screws etc.

Any info from someone that’s been up there recently or that is going up in the next few weeks is appreciated. Thanks

Also post on Mountainproject.com
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Postby outofstep80 » Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:03 pm

I'll post when I get back.
Will be in Co from August 29th to Sept 5th.

Anyone else been up there lately?
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Postby Roam Around » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:49 pm

post the question over in the CO forum on mountainproject.com.

it's prime season on teh Diamond and I'm sure people are up there daily.
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Kieners route

Postby pyerger » Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:45 pm

Did Kieners, this past weekend 8/15 The lamb slide was iced up, the last few hundred feet. Found that an ice tool, and a mountain ax worked very well. Stiff crampons/boots would have been nice. We didn't feel the need to rope up for this portion, but Depending on your comfort level, you may want to take a couple of ice screws.

Have fun! It is a great climb!!!
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Postby outofstep80 » Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:45 pm

i hiked in on wed and turned back. lambs slide looked like snow but it was rotten ice I stuck my axe in and a large plate like piece broke out when I pulled on it. i tried a few more spots with similar results. i even tried to go further into a spot that already broke out and it just kept pulling out large chunks of ice. I dont really know anything about ice or if it would be posb to climb with 2 ice tools or not but it did not seem safe to me so I hiked out again. My 3rd year failing on longs for various reasons. It was a good hike though. watched a team flying up the casual route which was impressive. A ranger said we missed good conditions by 2 to 3 days. We could not even see a good way to make it to Alexanders Chimmeny.
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