Middle Palisade Snow/Ice Conditions July 2015

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patacap

 
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Middle Palisade Snow/Ice Conditions July 2015

by patacap » Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:57 pm

Does anyone know the snow/ice conditions on Middle Palisade via the East Face route?

Specifically, I'm concerned about the difficulty of crossing the bergshrung to enter the Secor chute? Or can all the snow on the route be avoided by going on 3rd/4th class rock?

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Deb

 
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Re: Middle Palisade Snow/Ice Conditions July 2015

by Deb » Thu Jul 09, 2015 1:43 am

The Mid Palisade Glacier looked doable with sections of ice and small crevasses 3 weeks ago. I'd suspect there will be an inversion nearly 2' wide along the base wall of the peak. Can probably access chute lower and to the right of glacier on that loose shit. Be advised - it has snowed at higher elevation (over 12K') for the past 3 days and temps have dropped so you may have some wet or icy sections in the chute.

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Re: Middle Palisade Snow/Ice Conditions July 2015

by DukeJH » Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:48 pm

On July 9 I made it approximately midway along the moraine from Finger Lake before visibility dropped to 50', the snow began to fall, and I bailed the route. I did not get a real good look at the base of the route due to the clouds but it looked like the rib bisecting the Middle Palisade Glacier was easily accessible and clear.

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Re: Middle Palisade Snow/Ice Conditions July 2015

by patacap » Tue Jul 14, 2015 6:03 pm

Summited Middle Pal via the East Face on Saturday 7/11/15. Didn't need crampons for crossing Middle Palisade Glacier. Ice ax or trekking pole would suffice. Maybe 25-30 steps over snow to get from rib to headwall. Snow in randkluft felt solid. Some snow on the southern side at the very beginning of the main chute if you go up the alternate red rock route. Very minimal snow in the Secor and main chute otherwise, though it did rain a lot later that evening.

Pictures of route conditions: https://www.flickr.com/gp/36149715@N06/568jv2

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