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Middle Palisade Summit Register Can Lost

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Postby KathyW » Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:03 pm

We did what Doug suggests is the easiest route this weekend - a short, and well worn, traverse from where we got off the glacier into the chute and and then straight up until near the summit ridge - You turn left and traverse just below the summit ridge for a short distance to get to the summit. It's a jump across now to get on/off the glacier, but this weekend it was pretty easy even for a short person.

There was someone above us knocking rocks down like there were any climbers below him when we were in the chute - it was sort of like dodgeball for a while.




Edits galore because of typos and left out words - my fingers and brain don't always work together.
Last edited by KathyW on Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:49 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby MoapaPk » Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:36 pm

KathyW wrote:We did what Doug suggests is the easiest route this weekend - a short, and well worn, traverse from where we got off the glacier into the chute and and then straight up until near the summit ridge - You turn left and traverse just below the summit ridge for a short distance to get the summit if you. It's a jump across now to get on/off the glacier, but this weekend it was pretty easy even for a short person.

There was someone above us knocking rocks down like were weren't below him today - it was sort of like dodge ball for a while.


Good on ya! As I said, we didn't bring axes, but did bring helmets! There were several parties above us as we descended, and it was a bit frightening.
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Postby MoapaPk » Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:59 pm

I used Bob Burd's info for the red-line route, and found it good, and also took the red-band route to avoid the "bergschrund." We climbed on the sides of the gully to avoid the loose rock, preferring minor class 4 to the possibility of killing people who might be below.
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Postby Michael Graupe » Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:44 pm

Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html


That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle


There is absolutely nothing wrong with this picture. It is just pointing out an alternative route how to avoid the potential moat. Yes, it is a different angle, but if you can't correlate the features from the photo to what you are seeing on your approach, or need a lengthy step by step guide how to find your way up the face, you need to go elsewhere and practice some route finding skills.
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Postby kevin trieu » Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:00 pm

Michael Graupe wrote:
Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html


That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle


There is absolutely nothing wrong with this picture. It is just pointing out an alternative route how to avoid the potential moat. Yes, it is a different angle, but if you can't correlate the features from the photo to what you are seeing on your approach, or need a lengthy step by step guide how to find your way up the face, you need to go elsewhere and practice some route finding skills.


I've done both of those routes and found them to be accurate.
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Postby Diggler » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:18 pm

Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html


That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle and if I were to describe the route using that photo it would be accompanied by more words and corrections than you would care to read...Everyone wants to hold up SP's beta as the best around and the best thing about this website, I beg to differ after using it as a noob for years...1000pks might as well have drawn that, from foggy 20 plus year old memories...You'd find better beta in my TR, and it was not written for that purpose...

Here's some contrast for you to ponder...(although slightly incorrect as well, the bottom half of our route was class 4, the class 3 is to the climbers right of our route in another chute):

Image

If your planning on doing this route, expect class 4, it's too easy to end up in class 4 terrain anywhere on the route, there's a high chance you will need to surmount class 4 moves based on the difficult route finding. Plan on hours of class 3 and above terrain. The guide books are not very helpful and some are just dead wrong (like sp's photo), even secor has errors...BUT, I can guarantee Norman Clyde and many others reading this will say it's pretty easy...it's all relative...


There is so much misinformation out there from shady characters, on the web as well as those who publish guidebooks. That is why I will only do a route if it has the official SuperTopo stamp of approval.
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Postby Mescalito345 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:19 pm

There's now a summit register on Middle Palisade. Thanks for the information about gear and routes. We brought along helmets and ice axes, but no crampons. The glacier traverse was pretty easy. Here are some photos:

http://pkuroda.smugmug.com/Landscapes/Middle-Palisade-August-21-23/13470898_Fttup#980910285_4nRrP
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Postby ARosenthal » Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:30 pm

Mescalito345 wrote:There's now a summit register on Middle Palisade.


Yay! All's well that ends well :P
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Postby QITNL » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:44 am

Awesome. Nice shots.
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Postby KathyW » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:09 pm

I believe it was Kurt Wedberg who found the other part of the metal summit register container at Finger Lake and placed it on the summit on August 16th; so the story ends.
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