Mixed routes in the Sierra

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kevin trieu

 
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Mixed routes in the Sierra

by kevin trieu » Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:25 pm

Are there any in the Sierra to do over winter? I know the Winter Chimney on LLP form a few times.

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WML

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by WML » Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:59 pm

Can't miss out on gettin' yer learn on! 1000pks shall teach all who lack comparable knowledge, and overuse the term "enviro"

Word has it that Cardinal Pinnacle forms some mixed lines you can scratch up in winter.

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A-Lex

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by A-Lex » Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:39 pm

Second the Cardinal Pinnacle reference. And the Winter Chimney reference. I've been asking the same question and not many people seem to have answers. I know its out there though!

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WML

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by WML » Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:42 pm

Word is some of the Winter Route on LPP can form too? Has anyone come across any other scrape-your-way-up routes on the east side?

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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by fedak » Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:02 pm

> 1000Pks never did any technical in the High Sierra winter. Too cold for my fingers,

The local enviro club stole his mittens.
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http://www.fedak.net/backcountry.html

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A-Lex

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by A-Lex » Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:06 pm

SMC's website has the Cardinal Pinnacle route as one of their guided climbs.

http://www.sierramountaincenter.com/win ... erock.html


And SMI's list of classic Sierra mixed routes:

http://sierramountaineering.com/

"mixed classics" tab under "sierra climbs"


The guys at pullharder.org have their winter club stuff too.

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asmrz

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by asmrz » Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:58 pm

Unfortunately, there isn't much of true mixed climbing in the Sierra. The conditions are rarely there for ice to form well. But almost any summer rock route can be done in the winter and one will encounter deep snow, a bit of ice here and there and cold conditions. That's given. But true mixed climbs are rare. The two examples above, Winter Route and the Winter Chimney are propably the only (true) and good mixed climbs on the east side. The Chimney ices up more than the Winter Route. On the Winter Route you'll only get one full ice pitch (although a good one). Another example would be the Mendenhall Chimney on Temple Crag which ices up once in a while.

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dug

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by dug » Thu Nov 04, 2010 3:16 am

asmrz wrote: Another example would be the Mendenhall Chimney on Temple Crag which ices up once in a while.

Just as a data point, I've tried Mendenhall 3x in winter and only found vertical snow tunneling. The SE face of Emerson could be mixed if you hit it right. I was there once just a bit late. The whole first pitch was ice, which immediately fell down as soon as I touched a tool to it.

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kevin trieu

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by kevin trieu » Thu Nov 04, 2010 4:42 am

dug wrote:
asmrz wrote: Another example would be the Mendenhall Chimney on Temple Crag which ices up once in a while.

Just as a data point, I've tried Mendenhall 3x in winter and only found vertical snow tunneling. The SE face of Emerson could be mixed if you hit it right. I was there once just a bit late. The whole first pitch was ice, which immediately fell down as soon as I touched a tool to it.


I tried SE face of Emerson a couple of years ago. It was definitely not in and included a nice waterfall.

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kevin trieu

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by kevin trieu » Thu Nov 04, 2010 4:47 am

asmrz wrote:Unfortunately, there isn't much of true mixed climbing in the Sierra. The conditions are rarely there for ice to form well. But almost any summer rock route can be done in the winter and one will encounter deep snow, a bit of ice here and there and cold conditions. That's given. But true mixed climbs are rare. The two examples above, Winter Route and the Winter Chimney are propably the only (true) and good mixed climbs on the east side. The Chimney ices up more than the Winter Route. On the Winter Route you'll only get one full ice pitch (although a good one). Another example would be the Mendenhall Chimney on Temple Crag which ices up once in a while.


that's what I was afraid of.

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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by The Chief » Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:38 am

They are there.... go find em.
Last edited by The Chief on Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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SKI

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by SKI » Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:10 am

The Chief wrote:Image

Etc....

There is tons to be had all over the Eastside.

Question is, how hard/difficult of "Mixed" stuff do you want to play on?


Personally...

...The kind of stuff that you would find in the kid section at Wal Mart, you know, next to the rated "G" bambi movies.

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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by The Chief » Thu Nov 04, 2010 3:07 pm

They are there.... go find em.
Last edited by The Chief on Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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kevin trieu

 
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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by kevin trieu » Thu Nov 04, 2010 3:18 pm

The Chief wrote:There is tons to be had all over the Eastside.

Question is, how hard/difficult of "Mixed" stuff do you want to play on?


Just moderate. I know LV has some but I was more interested in a little adventure in the high Sierra. Care to name a few routes out of the "tons to be had all over the Eastside" :?:

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Re: Mixed routes in the Sierra

by rhyang » Thu Nov 04, 2010 3:30 pm

Years ago I remember "someone" telling me the north face of Crystal Crag sometimes forms up. Anybody done it ?

I hear there are some nice winter mixed routes in this place called the North Cascades :twisted:
Taaaake !

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