Mont Blanc Climb

by **wilkobaggins** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:18 pm

Hi Guys of the Forum,

I'm climbing Mont Blanc this summer, unguided

(yes I know the success rate and the dangers of climbing unguided before anyone begins a massive rant!, but am part of a party of four experienced climbers (including myself) which have climbed much more technical winter routes in Canada and Scotland before than the Gouter route on Mont Blanc) We are climbing the Cosmique arete and Mont Blanc Du Tacul first for aclimiatization and want to sleep at altude to help the process - however - booking the cosmiques refuge hut was easy - the gouter refuge hut for the summit attempt on the other hand is imposible to contact as no on picks up the phone! Does anyone have an email adress contact or a reliable contact number they have used before for the Gouter Refuge so I can get my party boked in before they fill up. Thanks in advance!

Matt.

by **etai101** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:28 pm

i would recommend sleeping in tents at valle blanch (save yourself some cash and it is a great to familiarize with the area), than acclimatizing with long walks to hellbruner point lachnalle maybe even a climb to rochfourt ridge good fun.
In my opinion going up mont blanc via the three mount traverse is a much more satisfying climb than the gouter, having climbed them both.
their is a very dangerous rock fall under the Grand Couloir on the way to the gouter hut, during my previous stay there were reported two deaths due to rock fall at th couloir.
i met climbers who sustained injuries from rock fall that completely ruined their season not to mention almost their lives.

i know you have your plans set maybe this point of view could help if not cant blame me for trying if your locked on the gouter try and get hold of the OHM http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/Default.asp?id_lang=2& they might be able to help you most likely refering you to a guide survice but you never know unless you try.

Good luck .

by **phlipdascrip** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:34 pm

Gouter hut reservations:
http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... ation.html

This info is for last year but the dates should be about the same each year:

SUMMER 2010: SHELTER CARE 8 June to late September

BOOKING IS REQUIRED

START OF RESERVATION: Monday, April 26, 2010 from 8 pm

by **radson** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:34 pm

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6HXQxEX910[/youtube]

A few rocks in the couloir

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:16 am

Now anybody should say how many people have severe problems or die in the Three Monts traverse, including bad weather and avalanches... I've attempted Mont Blanc twice on the Gôuter route and I've never had caught by a rock though the first time my old brother was hit by a very little stone on this head

by **etai101** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:38 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:Now anybody should say how many people have severe problems or die in the Three Monts traverse, including bad weather and avalanches... I've attempted Mont Blanc twice on the Gôuter route and I've never had caught by a rock though the first time my old brother was hit by a very little stone on this head

currently the grand couliur is considered by the o.h.m as a suggnificant danger to climbers.
no idea as to how much climbers get cought in trouble during the ascent of any route im just relaying what the talk of the town was last summer and has been for quite some time before.

in genrel too much snow melt high temp at elavation izoterm level as i remmeber in july was between -10c and 10c on mont blanc summit.

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:34 pm

In general when you are caught by a sudden June/July or August snow storm you have much more posibilities of finding protection on the Gôuter ridge than in the Three Monts, where there is no hut between Refuge des Cosmiques and Mont Blanc summit. Even we could talk about the seracs fall danger and the avalanche prone in either route. Gôuter route is much saver in the last issues. Even the Three Monts route is by far longer and harder than the Gôuter route in the summit day...

by **etai101** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:10 pm

Diego
this is not the thread to start debating which route is the best one up mont blanc (in my personal opinion Peuterey Integral) i was just pointing out the facts about the approach.

i mentioned the three mounts as a stand in route i don't care much for this route, as it seems grand mulets sounds the nicest from chamonix. but you think this is about which is better than the gouter.
yes the gouter is faster and easier and the hut is one of the best huts in Europe blah blah blah...

both routes are nice and easy and crowded to each his own take your pick i just rather snow on my head than rocks neither would be best but that's just me objective danger awaits us all.
Cheers..

p.s.
Im done replying I felt compelled to up to now I feel my point cant be driven any deeper

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:52 pm

borutbk wrote:Some info about the Gouter hut:

HELLO AND WELCOME TO THE GOUTER HUT
Here is some information concerning registration and life at the hut.

Registration:
-If you have a confirmed reservation: go to the reception desk with your guiding and alpine association cards.
Please tell us which drinks each member of the group will have for breakfast (Tea, Coffee, Chocolate...). The dormitory placements will then be distributed.
-If you do not have a reservation: upon arrival, go to the reception desk with your guiding and alpine association cards. If there have been cancellations, you might be able to get a dormitory placement (information given after 7:30 PM). If not, you will be able to sleep in the main room after the second evening service. Wake up is at 1:30 AM; please clear the main room by 1:45 AM, in order to allow space for breakfast. Note that sleeping in the main room must be paid for, in order to avoid overcrowding.

Life at the hut: all stoves are fobidden inside the hut. No cooking inside the building (as per local bylaw). You may buy hot water in the hut.

Toilet below the annex, at level-1. Access by the metal staircase.

Meals:
-During the day from 8 AM to 4 PM.
-Evening: 1st service at 6 PM, 2nd service at 6:45 PM.
The names of groups are written on the bulletin board and also at the end of the tables.
-Breakfast: 1st service from 1:50 AM to 2:15 AM; 2nd service at 8 AM.
Thank you for only using necessary space and returning your tray.

Dormitory: the placements are given upon registration (or after 7:30 PM if you have not reserved, and there is space left).
Thank you for not leaving personal belongings in the dormitory after leaving in the morning.

Payment: upon arrival (quickest), or after the evening meal. We accept: cash in €; French bank checks; bank cards (subject to compatibility); Visa Cards (only for overnight guests).

Water: Since there is no drinkable water connexion nor any source, there is no running water at the hut. We sell bottled mineral water.

THE WHOLE TEAM WISHES YOU A PLEASANT STAY AT THE HUT AND A GOOD ASCENT OF MONT BLANC.

Once I slept in the hut main room and will never repeat. If you don't have a dormitory I recommend to pitch your tent on the snowed surface above the hut, just below Aiguille de Gôuter summit

by **jmh5331** » Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:46 pm

Has anyone successfully made reservations at the Refuge du Gouter for this 2011 climbing season yet? Based on my limited French, I was under the impression the off guard telephone was to become operational April 25th at 8pm. The number listed on the website posted above is for a personal phone I believe, and the recorded message states that the voicemail is full and cannot accept any more messages. Is this the right place to make reservations, and if not, what is the correct way?

Thanks,
Mike

by **Kyle22** » Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:43 pm

Last summer I summited Mont Blanc unguided in early July without any real trouble aside from a little bit of a tense moment while crossing the bowling alley.

Reservations were filled for the Refuge du Gouter as well as the hut bellow. The folks who run the huts were accommodating even though they were fully booked. I payed and they let me sleep on the floor which was better than hauling up a tent in my opinion. I was really tired from 3 other summits that I finished before. So I didn't feel like bringing up a tent, if your fresh it wouldn't be too bad.

Good luck on your attempt Matt!

by **Diego Sahagún** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:54 am

I still prefer to sleep in my tent up there...

by **Diego Sahagún** » Wed May 11, 2011 12:08 pm

etai101 wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Now anybody should say how many people have severe problems or die in the Three Monts traverse, including bad weather and avalanches... I've attempted Mont Blanc twice on the Gôuter route and I've never had caught by a rock though the first time my old brother was hit by a very little stone on this head

currently the grand couliur is considered by the o.h.m as a suggnificant danger to climbers.
no idea as to how much climbers get cought in trouble during the ascent of any route im just relaying what the talk of the town was last summer and has been for quite some time before.

in genrel too much snow melt high temp at elavation izoterm level as i remmeber in july was between -10c and 10c on mont blanc summit.

A tunnel for the Gouter couloir: http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/ ... r-couloir/

Comment limiter les accidents dans le couloir du Goûter ? :arrow:

http://www.fondation-petzl.org/comment- ... -du-gouter

by **Bo1981** » Mon May 23, 2011 8:03 pm

I'm doing the Gouter Route with some friends and a guide at the beginning of August.

On recommendation of our guide, we are acclimatizing on the Italian side (Orny and Trient huts) as these routes and huts are less crowded.
The guide also informed us that reservations are practically impossible on Gouter and Tete Rousse as the building of the new Goutter hut is drastically reducing the available places.

Mont Blanc Climb

Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Re: Mont Blanc Climb

Who is online