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Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

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Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby FlatheadNative » Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:39 am

I am looking for a conditions report for the West Face Route for Cleveland. We are climbing next Monday - Wednesday.

Specifically, what are the snow conditions like?
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby peakhugger » Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:51 pm

The bushwacking down low should be interesting... will you let us know what you find?
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby FlatheadNative » Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:55 am

the route is basically snow-free. we summitted last Tuesday after spending the night at 6,100 feet. Great climb.

The bushwhack was not fun but we slogged through it.
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby peakhugger » Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:34 am

Did you find any "elk trails"?

How does the route compare to the Stoney Indian traverse, assuming you've done that?
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby EarMountain » Thu Aug 25, 2011 12:59 pm

Don't know what Flatheadnative thinks but IMHO the Stoney Indian Pass route is the way to go. You are at elevation longer with great views and no bushwhacking! But the direct routes up the SW or W faces are shorter and can be done in a day from Goat Haunt.
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby FlatheadNative » Thu Aug 25, 2011 3:31 pm

I cannot disagree with EarMountain on the fact that the Stoney Indian Route may be the easier route. I have not done the Stoney Indian Route but am confident that avoiding the bushwhack is a great thing! The West Ridge Route is quite enjoyable after getting through the brush along Camp Creek.

Keep in mind that If the plan is to make this a 2 or 3 day trip successfully securing an overnight undesignated permit for the west bowl below Cleveland is certainly much easier than navigating through dates and campsites to secure a camp spot at Stoney Indian Lake when having to deal with all of the hikers.

Each route probably has its benefits and drawbacks. That being said I am planning to do the Stoney Indian Route next time I climb Cleveland.
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby FlatheadNative » Thu Aug 25, 2011 3:34 pm

We did find a few elk trails but each time they would end in the "trail" being smothered in alder. There is supposed to be a flagged trail to the basin from the hiking trail. We did not find it.

I have not done the Stoney Indian Route. That is in the agenda for the next climb of Cleveland.
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Re: Mount Cleveland, West Face Route

Postby EarMountain » Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:38 pm

I definitely agree that a climb of Mount Cleveland with a camp at Stoney Indian Lake requires plenty of advance planning to get the required permit for the campsite. I've been able to do it that way twice though and it is a great route. Of course one has to get lucky with respect to the weather too. Given that climbers should check the availability of the campsite when getting their permit for other routes just in case it is available. There are three sites at Stoney Indian Lake and only two of them are reservable in advance so there's alway the possibility, albeit remote, that the third site might be available.

I've also heard that the elk trail approach to the Camp Creek drainage has been flagged. In my experience only the beginning of the trail was marked. Where the main elk trail leaves the Waterton Valley Trail is not as obvious as one might like.
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