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Mt hood climb suggestion

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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby ExcitableBoy » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:16 am

No worries. Kind of a moot point, as the route will likely be out of shape by late June early July when the OP wants to climb. Here is a nice video by Oregon Field Guide about the history of climbing Mt Hood. http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/segments/view/1826 One climber interviewed said she first climbed Hood in August of 1946, now the mountain is out of shape by early June.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby divnamite » Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:43 pm

How bad are the crevasses on Reid glacier for Reid Head Wall? I probably won't have a partner, so I'm thinking about soloing it. Climbing part is fine, just concern about crevasses. Also, there are a lot of confusion regarding Reid. I found this picture on the flickr. Any idea which one might be the Reid Head Wall?

Image
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby ExcitableBoy » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:51 pm

Reid Glacier Headwall is the one climber's right of Leuthold's Couloir. I have always roped up for the Reid. Although other than the bergschrund I don't recall seeing any open crevasses, but I assume they are there.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby Brian Jenkins » Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:30 am

Here's a photo I took with annotations of the Reid (the green line).

Image

If you click on the link below, it'll take you to where you can link to photos at the numbered points. Berg is between point one and two and like EB said is the only crevasse over there I've ever seen in probably 8 to 10 climbs there.

http://www.summitpost.org/west-side-routes-annotated/203354/c-764768
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:19 am

Nice topo. I realize my response might seem flip, but once under the face it is kind of obvious which route is Luetholds, and which is Reid Glacier Headwall. The above photo is a nice illustration.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby logsden » Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:08 am

divnamite,
I'd consider getting onto the Reid HW to be pretty low on the "crevasse exposure risk scale"...if there were such a thing. I've soloed the route (in February), when everything was closed up nicely, and it was fine. The 'schrund was slightly open in places but was easy to inspect and cross safely.

ymmv...of course. i hesitate to publicly recommend anything that the local news and bbs blowhards might classify as "extremely irresponsible mountain hiking" in any post-accident feeding frenzy...

not that i'd anticipate said epic...but this is Der Hoodwand we're talkin about...shizz happens.

edit to add: the traverse over to the turn up onto the Reid HW generally stays close to the lower buttresses of rock and generally off of the Reid glacier proper until heading up below the bergschrund.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby Ben Beckerich » Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:40 am

Nothing on this mountain is obvious in poor visibility. A number of people have gotten lost on the west face.. getting stuck in Castle Crags trying to take one of the WCR variations of RGH, getting stuck on the RGH turning up too soon while looking for Leutholds, waiting too long and accidentally climbing Yokum Ridge and getting stuck, getting lost on route on RGH, etc... Shitty visibility makes that side of the mountain a maze.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby ExcitableBoy » Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:43 pm

Ben B. wrote:Nothing on this mountain is obvious in poor visibility.

This is true of all stratovolcanoes in the PNW.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby Ben Beckerich » Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:16 pm

Fer sher, absolutely. My point is that I wouldn't go up without a plan to get up in poor visibility. Every time I've been whited out, it's been forecast clear skies.... Turning around for no better reason than poor visibility is a lame way to finish a climb.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby ExcitableBoy » Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:30 pm

Ben B. wrote:Fer sher, absolutely. My point is that I wouldn't go up without a plan to get up in poor visibility.

I think it is more important to GET DOWN in poor visibility, hang the summit.

Ben B. wrote:Turning around for no better reason than poor visibility is a lame way to finish a climb.

Turning around in a white out is a good way to stay alive.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby lcarreau » Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:49 pm

Infinite wisdom tells me that the same volcanic summit will be there next week OR next year. Why the RUSH ... chill out and always plan for the worst ..

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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:17 am

Well I guess we're wandering into the realm of individual comfort.. I wouldn't have gotten hardly any climbing in this winter if I'd been afraid of a little shitty visibility.

My last 3 climbs in a row... and these were taken during brief moments of clarity

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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby billisfree » Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:02 pm

Take a GPS, NO PROBLEM! Just hope you're in bright sunshine at the top.
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Re: Mt hood climb suggestion

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:34 am

and again today...

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