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Mt Hood Summit Bid

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Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby emt0229 » Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:35 pm

Hi All,

I am planning on climbing Mt Hood next year. First, I am looking for more of an Alpine climb with more snow. I don't want to climb it in July. I am wondering, what are the best weather months for an attempt of Mt Hood. I want A LOT of snow, but I don't want to blow my summit chances because of bad weather. I am thinking about climbing Hood in May...Is early May a good time for weather or would it be better to push my dates back to mid or late May or even early July?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

~Adam~

P.S. Can anyone show me some pictures of the difference between climbing up through the pearly gates and going by way of the "old chutes".
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Postby mrchad9 » Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:45 pm

I did it late June one year. Complete snow cover, but the rocks around you aren't coated like they are in the winter.

But even then I was in a near blizzard, so be prepared for all types of weather. Luckily it broke for us around sunrise.
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Postby dskoon » Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:55 pm

You might try, if you haven't already, :wink:, looking at this page. Quite helpful, really.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... -hood.html

May/June are typically the months to climb Hood, as there is a ton of snow and the weather begins turning for the better. But, do a little reading; there's plenty of info out there.
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Postby emt0229 » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:06 pm

You might try, if you haven't already, :wink:, looking at this page. Quite helpful, really.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... -hood.html

May/June are typically the months to climb Hood, as there is a ton of snow and the weather begins turning for the better. But, do a little reading; there's plenty of info out there.

Thanks, I 've read that...I'm looking for more specific info. I know the months that are best for climbing Hood. I am trying to figure out if EARLY May stills brings the threat of bad weather.
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Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:20 pm

emt0229 wrote: I am trying to figure out if EARLY May stills brings the threat of bad weather.


The short answer is yes. May is a crap shoot in terms of weather - could be great, could be crap. We typically see a significant decrease in POP after July 4. See summary stats here:

http://www.wrcc.dri.edu/cgi-bin/cliMAIN.pl?orgove

My advice: If early May is what works out in terms of your vacation schedule then by all means gear up for Mt Hood but also gear up for rock climbing and visit Smith Rock State Park if the weather is poor on Mt Hood. Chances are the weather will be decent at Smith and it really is a unique, historical crag with routes to please everyone: sport climber, crack climber, aid climber.

You really only need a 24 hour break in the weather for Hood, so if you come for a week and the weather is bad, hang at Smith, watch the weather and if it turns for the better make a dash for Hood.
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Postby dskoon » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:34 pm

As Excitableboy said, it really is a crap shoot. You might find decent weather in early May, then again, it could be storming. Late May is probably more reliable, but, still a crap shoot. I tried it once in mid-may, around the 18th or so I think, and was turned around due to falling ice produced by an inversion layer up high. Very warm. Tried it two weeks later and conditions were perfect. You know what they say about the weather. . .
Best o' luck.
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Postby lasvegaswraith » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:42 pm

As others said before me, mid May can go either way. I climbed in mid May and weather was fantastic - very little wind, sunny and 40s. The next day, the summit was completely socked in with clouds and fog by 700AM, so you never know.

I'll see what I can find in my own photos on the Pearly Gates v the Old Chute. As I understand it, most climbers, particularly the groups, make for the chutes to the left, as the Gates have gotten progressively steeper and icier over the years. I was travelling solo and took the Gates and had no trouble, but it was pretty icy and you don't have much room to bail. It kinda comes down to your comfort level. Plan for icier footing through the Gates... I'll see what I can find from my photos, but there are some good shots on the main photo page of both the Chutes and the Gates.
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Postby dskoon » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:50 pm

Yeah, as to the OP's question of "gates vs. chutes," the hogsback has shifted awhile back, and most take any variation of the chutes that are to the left of the Pearly gates.
Some still climb through the gates, but, at least in the recent past, one had better be a confident ice climber, placing pro, etc. because that's mostly what the gates are now: ice.
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby Fred Spicker » Fri Sep 24, 2010 1:47 pm

I see that you got the typical "welcome" over on Cascade Climbers :roll:
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby EastKing » Sat Sep 25, 2010 8:02 am

I noticed you are coming from Denver. If you coming in town to climb Hood setup your trip to stay two or three extra days in town to ensure your safe and successful trip on the mountain. Rushing up with no time leyway is bad news and you are dramatically lowering your chances of success and enjoyment. The actual climb should only take you 8-9 hours max provided you on correct path to the summit. I assume you have done a number of Colorado 14er's so you are in great shape so your time might be quicker. Ice axe, helmets, and crampons are mandatory. If you do summit on your first day there is always many other mountains here for the other days (like St. Helens and many many others). Hood is an awesome peak and it is one of my favorites.
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby climberska » Sat Sep 25, 2010 8:40 am

Done Hood twice in early May. It's great if the weather is good. Typically, the weather here is iffy until June 15. This year it was crappy until July 15.

As some have stated, the hogsback has moved. I've seen it in binoculars and it does not look easy like it used to be. Do some research on the route, based on recent info.

Be prepared to do something else if you are planning your trip in the future, otherwise, tell your boss when a weather window comes up you want permission to say "bye bye" and go for it. OR be prepared to try Shasta in Northern Cal for example - weather there is usually better. It's a 7-8 hour drive to the trailhead from Porkland.
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby climberska » Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:31 pm

Photo taken Aug 15, 2010 from highway 26 as you approach Goobermint Camp from the south (coming from Madras). The upper end of the hogback used to be farther to the right in the gulley.


DSC04127.JPG
DSC04127.JPG (888.03 KiB) Viewed 1067 times
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby ExcitableBoy » Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:03 pm

mattski wrote:the rock like on the right of this photo also that rock down the bottom dont look to bad :) ?


All of the rock on Mt Hood is beautiful, golden granite, shot through with perfect splitter cracks. Mt Hood is akin to the Aguilles in Chamonix.
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Re: Mt Hood Summit Bid

Postby Snowslogger » Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:25 pm

mattski wrote:ha ha is this the mighty mt hood. whats the rock like on the right of this photo also that rock down the bottom dont look to bad :) is that the crevasse that that choper crash on?


The rock is complete crap. In winter/spring covered in snow and ice it's much better and there are some routes over there.
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