Fred Spicker wrote:
tazz wrote:I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.
tazz, If you want a more moderate route that is not the slog up the glacier, you might consider the North Buttress reached via the North Buttress Couloir.http://www.summitpost.org/north-buttress/163922
Used to be I knew springtime arrived when I'd start seeing Colchuck NBC reports on cc.com. Second only to "when's WA Pass gonna open?"
I think people have such mixed reviews on the NE Buttress of Colchuck because everyone climbs a different route! You've got Beckey and Kearney, and then everyone who follows one ends up doing pieces of the other one, along with some crappy pink rock in between. We tried the Kearney and got it about half right. Definitely scary slab new route potential at the point where you gain the ridge crest near the end. Just look down those slabs to the glacier...surprised no one has done it?