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Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.

Huayhuash Question: San Antonio Pass vs Trapecio Pass?

Hey, just wondering if anyone has ever been over both of these passes? I know Trapecio makes things quicker and is fairly straightforward, but are the views better than San Antonio? We could take Trapecio and then the next day just hike up to San Antonio to check out the view and come back down, but if the view is clearly better from San Antonio we might just not both with Trapecio at all, especially ...
Read more : Huayhuash Question: San Antonio Pass vs Trapecio Pass? | Views : 254 | Replies : 1

Current Ecuador guide requirements?

What are the rules for having a guide in Ecuador these days? It seems like they instituted mandatory guiding in 2012 for some peaks, or maybe for entering national parks, but I can't find the precise rules online. Anyone know the rules, or have a link? Thanks!
Read more : Current Ecuador guide requirements? | Views : 513 | Replies : 2

Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

Hi all,

I'm planning to climb Aconcagua without guide and friend starting from next weekend. (2017 Christmas holiday season)
By checking the weather forecast every so often, I realized the wind speed is between 45-100 km/hr (28-62 mil/hr) during the day time at the peak.
I also heard a weak "La Nina" occurs.

I have two questions:
1. What is the ideal wind speed range to attack the peak?
2. Is it hard to attack ...
Read more : Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua | Views : 771 | Replies : 7

Ecuador boot opinions please.

How light of a boot can I get away with on Illiniza Norte or Corazon? I'm thinking my Trangos may be a little overkill and my old, they've been everywhere, Merrell Moab GTXs are not quite enough. I could leave the Moabs behind which is a benefit, just planing on needing waterproof or I could go lighter I guess. leaving next week. Thanks,
Read more : Ecuador boot opinions please. | Views : 504 | Replies : 2

Tips (or partners) climbing Huayna Potosi, Bolivia

2 friends and I planning to climb Huayna Potosi (6100m) and Illimani (6400m) in Bolivia this February. Our previous climb was Pico de Orizaba (5700m) but other than that, we are pretty fresh.

Looking for technical and gear tips for these objectives, and/or a more experienced partner(s) to join us, so that we can learn the ropes, literally. :)

Has anybody had personal experience on these mountains? ...
Read more : Tips (or partners) climbing Huayna Potosi, Bolivia | Views : 928 | Replies : 6

Logistics agencies Santiago, Chile

Can anyone suggest/recommend a mountaineering logistics agency in/near Santiago, Chile? My friends and I are looking at climbing Marmolejo (world's southernmost 6000er) and we don't need a climbing guide, but we are looking for logistical support (transportation, mules, food, etc.).
Read more : Logistics agencies Santiago, Chile | Views : 1218 | Replies : 1

Aconcagua normal route trail conditions

Hello Aco vets,

I see that some gear lists for the Normal Route include an ice ax and crampons even during peak summer months. Is there significant hard ice at this time of year, and is there really opportunity for self-arrest on steep grades? Or is this just guide service conservatism?

Thanks much!


Read more : Aconcagua normal route trail conditions | Views : 816 | Replies : 2

Cordillera Blanca in November. Craziness or not?

Hello climbers, mountaineers and all the mountain-lovers :)

Earlier this year me and a friend purchased error-fare flight tickets to Peru. Cheap as they were, we could not choose the dates too well and we ended up flying mid-November and returning mid-December.

Our only plan for Peru so far is to be in the mountains. We have fresh experience from 4000+ m peaks in the Alps up ...
Read more : Cordillera Blanca in November. Craziness or not? | Views : 982 | Replies : 3

Huayna Potosi guide and timing

I'm planning a trip to climb Huayna Potosi in early October 2017.
I'm looking for any recommendation on a guide and feedback on attempting an October ascent.
Read more : Huayna Potosi guide and timing | Views : 926 | Replies : 1

Ojos del salado guides

Hello all,

I am planning to climb Ojos del salado in late December early January timeframe. I am only one person and would like to know if anyone is planning it around the same timeframe.
Also, any recommendations on finding a good guide for a fair price?

Read more : Ojos del salado guides | Views : 808 | Replies : 0


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