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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Training for Class-4+


Was wondering how you folks who are comfortable solo'ing class-4+ without rope got to where you are. I've been taking yearly trips to the Sierra for all kinds of class-3 fun, and would like to get to the point where I'm able to go beyond that if a route requires it. (Not necessarily sustained, but at least for short sections.)

There are climbing gyms nearby and I'm wondering whether to take up bouldering, or ...
Read more : Training for Class-4+ | Views : 1314 | Replies : 13

Using Internal Guy Lines

I've read about adding internal guy lines to the tent set up to make the tent stronger in bad weather. I can't find much information on how to do this. Can anyone help me out with some links to instructions on how to internally guy out a tent? I appreciate the help.
Read more : Using Internal Guy Lines | Views : 1010 | Replies : 6

Fitness Benchmarks for Denali

I'm looking to improve my training for Denali. I'm looking specific fitness benchmarks. For example each branch of the armed forces has their own PFT standards. Anyone, particularly those who have climbed Denali, have suggestions about specific fitness standards to aim for?

For example: mile times or interval times (as a gauge for MaxVO2 output), pushups, pullups, bench, squat (reps/weight), etc.

I realize there is no substitute for pulling a massive sled up-mountain through snow ...
Read more : Fitness Benchmarks for Denali | Views : 1631 | Replies : 16

Hip flexor problem when training with pack

Hi all,

I've had an issue lately when training with a weighted backpack, and I'm not sure why. When I jump on a stairmaster with my 25L pack (loaded between 45 and 60 pounds) I experience rapid fatigue and painful cramping in my hip flexor complex and lower back, and especially in my right gluteus minimus.

I have always had some hip flexor imbalances and recently had some glute/hamstring atrophy due to injury, but it's ...
Read more : Hip flexor problem when training with pack | Views : 822 | Replies : 5

Protection Techniques 101 For Steep Snow

New to the forums, here, so let me introduce myself: climbing and mountaineering are something of a secondary pursuit for me. I am more of a runner and backpacker, but have always enjoyed getting a bit further up into the peaks, over the years, and have been along on trips up some basic, Alpine type mountaineering routes up steep snow or moderately mixed/class 3 stuff. And that's more or less the limits I really want ...
Read more : Protection Techniques 101 For Steep Snow | Views : 1613 | Replies : 16

Jumar left or right hand?

I know they make left and right handed jumars, just curious which people use and why?
Read more : Jumar left or right hand? | Views : 724 | Replies : 2

Bushwhacking navigation tip

I had an interesting experience last week that I wanted to share. Bushwhacking (no trail whatsoever) through some very heavy blowdown. At some point after climbing over and under a bunch of fallen obstacles I reached into my pocket for my compass to get a new bearing. Compass gone. Obviously a rookie mistake committed by an old timer. I was about a mile away and 1000 feet up from the nearest trail. Moral of the ...
Read more : Bushwhacking navigation tip | Views : 824 | Replies : 5

Hanging board beginner question Hanging board beginner question


I read quite a lot about this topic but could not find exactly an answer to my question which is:
Should I remove as much as weight as necessary (maybe something like 30ish pounds :-p) in order to do the full hangboard workout or if I should keep it the way it is with a moderate weight removed and gradually improve until I can do the whole workout?

I made myself a board close ...
Read more : Hanging board beginner question | Views : 773 | Replies : 3

Glacier Travel: Rope on uphill or downhill hip?

I've always put the rope on the downhill hip, but recently I've seen a couple references recommend putting the rope on the uphill hip. The reason being that if someone behind you falls, it will spin you into the slope which is where you want to be for arresting. The downside is more chances to step on the rope and get tangled up while climbing especially if any slack gets in the rope.

Maybe it ...
Read more : Glacier Travel: Rope on uphill or downhill hip? | Views : 904 | Replies : 4

Communicating under tough conditions

I'm curious to hear people's systems for communicating on alpine climbs, especially in tough conditions.

As a backdrop for this question: my alpine experience has so far been limited to good conditions on clear days with light-to-moderate wind. I could hear my partners. Likewise ice and rock climbing ventures: good(ish) weather and relatively short pitches with clear vision. But I had one experience this winter on an alpine route on Mt. Washington in nasty conditions ...
Read more : Communicating under tough conditions | Views : 1034 | Replies : 5


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