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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Glacier Travel: Rope on uphill or downhill hip?

I've always put the rope on the downhill hip, but recently I've seen a couple references recommend putting the rope on the uphill hip. The reason being that if someone behind you falls, it will spin you into the slope which is where you want to be for arresting. The downside is more chances to step on the rope and get tangled up while climbing especially if any slack gets in the rope.

Maybe it ...
Read more : Glacier Travel: Rope on uphill or downhill hip? | Views : 77 | Replies : 3


Communicating under tough conditions

I'm curious to hear people's systems for communicating on alpine climbs, especially in tough conditions.

As a backdrop for this question: my alpine experience has so far been limited to good conditions on clear days with light-to-moderate wind. I could hear my partners. Likewise ice and rock climbing ventures: good(ish) weather and relatively short pitches with clear vision. But I had one experience this winter on an alpine route on Mt. Washington in nasty conditions ...
Read more : Communicating under tough conditions | Views : 227 | Replies : 4


Training Suggestions for My Goals

New to the forum so this is my first post.

I'm interested in climbing mountains like Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, M. Hood, Mt. Shuskan, St.Helens, and non-technical summits, maybe even a few in Alaska one day :)

I'd like to be able to have the skills to lead a small group of friends (totally for fun, not commercially) with similar experience level. For whatever reason the notion ...
Read more : Training Suggestions for My Goals | Views : 379 | Replies : 3


Pressure Breath Explanation

I've used the pressure breath before at high elevations, but I was never told exactly what is happening and how the pressure breath works. Now I'm curious. Can anyone offer an explanation of what is going on in the lungs during a pressure breath (besides the obvious increased pressure)? I've searched around but didn't find much as far as an explanation. The best I found was:

Pressure breath helps to improve gas exchange across the ...
Read more : Pressure Breath Explanation | Views : 728 | Replies : 11


steve house training manual

Hey guys, as most of you will know this book (training for the new alpinism), came out last year, and just want to know what you guys who have read it and put it into practice think about it.A lot of people seem to think its more aimed at top end climbing athletes,others seem to struggle understanding and using the book.What do you think.
Read more : steve house training manual | Views : 745 | Replies : 3


Am I too old?

Hi,

I'm a 30 year old British guy and I have recently quit my job in the city in pursuit of a better life. I have always been happiest in the mountains and I have done a small amount of trekking in the Austrian, Italian, and Swiss Alps. Do you think it's too late to retrain as a mountain guide? How long does it typically take? What are the costs?

Any advice would be appreciated. ...
Read more : Am I too old? | Views : 1328 | Replies : 13


Training for Alpamayo - What's best to do

I want to climb Alpamayo this summer, and I have two months off right before then. I'd like to leave for Peru in early July, so that means I have May and June to train. I'm hitting Ouray for a few days this coming March, but figured I need to do some stuff at altitude afterwards. Some thoughts I have:
- Move to Utah - Pros: I know some folks there, and I like the ...
Read more : Training for Alpamayo - What's best to do | Views : 751 | Replies : 3


Workout suggestiosn for getting into rock climbing?

Hey all,

I have just recently within the past year or so really wanted to get into rock climbing. At my university here in Idaho we have a rock climbing wall that I casually visit from time to time with a few buddies but I have wanted to start taking it a little more serious. I have a large frame (6'2" and about 220) and have been trying to lose some weight since I was ...
Read more : Workout suggestiosn for getting into rock climbing? | Views : 827 | Replies : 5


lateral release recovery time?

Hi all. I have two bad knees and am scheduled for arthroscopic surgery with a lateral release in a few days for the first one (I can go up, but going down is a bear). I've run into a lot of people who have had the scope and were back doing non-tech day peaks (like Wheeler at Great Basin) within 3 months, but the only people I know who have had the lateral release are ...
Read more : lateral release recovery time? | Views : 871 | Replies : 5


lingering stiff elbow lingering stiff elbow

Hello all:

I suffered a bad fall about 10 months ago and fractured my humerus badly. I had surgery where a plate was installed along with 8 screws. The fracture healed in about 12 weeks, but, I came out with a very stiff elbow and lingering fluid/inflammation in the elbow and the arm. My surgeon told me my elbow wasn't injured in the fall, just the humerus. The stiffness and fluid/inflammation has improved somewhat through ...
Read more : lingering stiff elbow | Views : 821 | Replies : 3


 

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