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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

When to rope up on steep snow

I've tried to find a good answer for this online, but so far no luck. At what angle do most people start considering roping up to belay on steep snow? (Note: Obviously on glaciers of any incline you should rope up, but I'm specifically referring to couloirs or other steep nonglacial snow)
Read more : When to rope up on steep snow | Views : 13223 | Replies : 5


FYI: Uphill Athlete Training Plans

Again, more climbing training plans for those crunched for time, desiring coaching/more formal structure, etc.
This time from Uphill Athlete:
https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-plans/
Read more : FYI: Uphill Athlete Training Plans | Views : 7425 | Replies : 2


Group of three

I am going to the Palisades in CA. I am looking at a lot of hiking. I want to minimize the amount of rope I am carrying. The terrain will be mostly class 4, with a few spots of low grade 5. I was thinking of 2 alternatives, but I have not seen them discussed before. . 2nd person trails a length of utility cord. The cord is used to pull down the rope for ...
Read more : Group of three | Views : 4738 | Replies : 3


Remember your gaiters while glissading!

Perfect conditions on the Muir snowfield yesterday for an awesome, nearly uninterrupted mile and a half glissade. Had my hardshell pants on, forgot gaiters due to summer conditions, and my pants quickly rode up to my knees. Never felt anything due to numb skin from the ice, it turns out that shit is pretty abrasive. Found this while changing layers at Pebble Creek...

Image

I'd never heard of this happening before, it's certainly not my ...
Read more : Remember your gaiters while glissading! | Views : 7711 | Replies : 6


Nerd Bombing The Crux

Oh Brave New World..

A Dartmouth-led research team has recreated parts of popular rock climbing routes using 3D modeling and digital fabrication.
http://money.cnn.com/2017/05/09/technol ... -climbing/

Environment-Scale Fabrication: Replicating Outdoor Climbing Experiences
http://vcl.cs.dartmouth.edu/publications/replicating
Read more : Nerd Bombing The Crux | Views : 3728 | Replies : 0


Protecting your face from sunburn

So Last year on Rainier I got a wicked burn on my face and lips. My lips swelled twice their size and it was pretty hard to eat anything for a week after the trip.

What do you use to protect your face? Constantly re-applying sunscreen doesn't seem to work for me. I've tried having a buff around my neck and pulling it up to my nose, but I feel like I can't breath.

any ...
Read more : Protecting your face from sunburn | Views : 25619 | Replies : 18


FYI: Mountain Tactical Institute: Mountain Fitness Plans

Seems like over the years there have been a lot of questions regarding training plans in this SP forum.

FWIW, it looks like Mountain Tactical Institute has specific workout training plans for rock/ice climbing, mountaineering, alpine expedition, skiing, ultra running, AMGA guide course fitness, etc.
Most training plans seem to be in the $39-$79 range.

http://mtntactical.com/fitness/mountain-athlete/

Mien Gott, there's even the infamous and ephemeral Denali Training Plan..
...
Read more : FYI: Mountain Tactical Institute: Mountain Fitness Plans | Views : 6310 | Replies : 1


two man rope team sled hauling

Does anyone have recommendation on hauling sleds in a two man rope team glacier travel on Denali? What is the best way to rig the sleds? Does the second person carry a sled or not advisable? And if yes, is there any way to tether it to the rope?
Thank you,
Gina
Read more : two man rope team sled hauling | Views : 8964 | Replies : 5


Backpack : Body Weight Ratio?

Hello,

Though a long-time reader, this is my first question to ask this forum and hopefully get some advice. With that in mind, if I have placed this in the wrong section, my apologies.

Regarding my inquiry: I weigh approximately 114 lbs (51.7kg for those on the other side of the pond). As someone getting into serious mountaineering, many guide services seem to recommend training with minimum 60 lb packs for the Denali-esque climbs. Has ...
Read more : Backpack : Body Weight Ratio? | Views : 14874 | Replies : 7


Interesting article on Grip Strength

Raising the American Weakling
There are two very different interpretations of our dwindling grip strength

http://nautil.us/issue/45/power/raising ... n-weakling
Read more : Interesting article on Grip Strength | Views : 6459 | Replies : 4


 

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