Dingus Milktoast wrote:I've seen some very experienced climbers giving what I think is very dangerous advice to noobs, about palm up vs palm down brake hand belay techniques. I think there are significant differences between sport belay and trad belay requirements and I think there should be corresponding technique changes to accomodate these differences.
But I don't go around criticizing peoples' techniques out in the field - I would only say something if I thought it was remarkably dangerous (and I noted)
DMT
I see that a lot from experienced alpine climber types who are used to fall forces way lower than lead falls. I've seen them doing pretty crazy stuff, like trimming off the tails on their double fishermans on their prussiks, and tie the prussik so the knot actually sits right in the middle of prussik wraps on the rope right on the point of friction!