Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the first

Mountaineering, rock climbing, and hiking news.
 

Postby Alpinist » Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:17 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:In a Miss Hawley's interview that I could read she said that there is no need to take a picture on the summit, 20 meters below would be sufficient...

I agree with that thinking, unless of course the final 20 meters is the crux of the route. If someone can verify that the rocks in her photo are located 20 meters below the summit, then Oh should be recognized as the first woman to climb the 8000m peaks. Hopefully someone can confirm that with some additional photos.
User Avatar
Alpinist

 
Posts: 5999
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Kildeer, Illinois, United States
Thanked: 633 times in 430 posts

Postby PuraVida » Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:06 pm

First of all sorry for my bad English, i'm from Spain. Ferrán Latorre, a spanish climber, camera of "Al filo" and member of Edurne's expedition write this in his blog on April 2010 (translate with google, sorry mistakes):

Coincidimos con Miss Oh en el Kangchenjunga. Cuando hizo cumbre, sobre las seis de la tarde, yo estaba en el campo 3 (7100 m) junto a mis compañeros, sujetando las tiendas para que no volaran. La noticia de la cumbre nos dejó alucinados. Os aseguro que no es nada fácil hacer cumbre a una montaña de casi 8600 metros con un tiempo horroroso después de veinte horas de ataque a cumbre. Así que, al día siguiente, subimos Jorge y yo hasta los 7500 metros para aclimatar un poco y para recibir a los alpinistas, Miss Oh y tres sherpas más, para ofrecerles nuestra ayuda y por supuesto felicitarles. Yo mismo filmé la felicitación sincera de Jorge a Miss Oh, alrededor de los 7400 metros. Al día siguiente, bajamos al Campo Base, y ahí hicimos lo propio. (....)

_______

We agree with Miss O on Kangchenjunga. When did summit on the six o'clock, I was at camp 3 (7100 m) with my classmates, holding the stores not to fly. The news of the summit we stopped hallucinating. I assure you it is not easy to reach the summit of a mountain of almost 8600 meters with a time horrible after twenty hours of attack on top. So, the next day, Jorge and I climbed up to 7500 meters to acclimate a bit and to receive the climbers and three Sherpas Miss O more to offer our help and of course congratulations. I shot myself Jorge sincere congratulations to Miss Oh, around 7400 meters. The next day we went down to Base Camp and then did the same.


Si se mira la foto con detalle, se puede intuir que está colgada de una cuerda fija verde, -por la tensión del cordino y por la cuerda fija que le pasa por encima de su pie izquierdo (círculo verde)-. Por casualidad encontré una foto de Asier colgado de esa misma cuerda fija, situada a unos 8350 metros de altura. De hecho, esa fue la última cuerda fija nueva instalada por los coreanos, como ellos mismos han reconocido a Desnivel, pues hicieron una enorme tarea equipando desde el Camp 4 (7600 m) hasta unos 8350 metros. A partir de ese punto, no había más cuerda fija nueva. Además, la cornisa de nieve que tapa a Miss Oh, no existe en las inmediaciones de la cumbre, -repasando mis fotos de cumbre hacia abajo- pero sí en la zona de la diagonal -entre los 8250 y los 8400 metros-. Además está el sentido común: ¿quién se hace una foto de cumbre, en medio de la tormenta, como aseguró Miss Oh, a pocos metros de le cumbre? ¿Por qué no en la cumbre?. Además, y para acabar, ahora están las recientes declaraciones de algunos sherpas, amigos de los sherpas que acompañaron a miss Oh hasta la cumbre, asegurando que no llegaron a la cumbre.
_______
If you look at the photo in detail, one can sense that hangs from a rope fixed green "by the tension of the rope sling and fixed it passes over your left foot (green circle) -. By chance I found a picture of that hanging Asier fixed line, located about 8350 meters high. In fact, that was the last new fixed line installed by the Koreans, as they themselves have recognized the drop, as did a huge task team from the Camp 4 (7600 m) to about 8350 meters. From that point, there was no new fixed rope. In addition, the cornice of snow cover to Miss Oh, there near the top, "going over my photos of top-down but in the area of the diagonal-between 8250 and 8400 meters. It is also common sense: who makes a summit photo, in the midst of the storm, said Miss Oh, a few meters from her top? Why not at the summit?. In addition, and finally, now the recent statements by some Sherpas, friends of the Sherpas who accompanied Miss O to the summit, ensuring that never reached the summit.
Image
Image

http://www.ferranlatorre.com/lang/es/in ... -a-la-duda
User Avatar
PuraVida

 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:41 pm
Location: Spain
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:22 pm

User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Postby Diego Sahagún » Tue Sep 14, 2010 6:48 pm

The KAF's decision is a serious blow to Miss Oh, and I feel very sorry for her because she sincerely believes that she was on Kangchenjunga's summit, and she believes that because her head Sherpa, Dawa Wangchuk, said they were there.

As to who was the first woman to summit all 14 8,000ers, I have no opinion for publication. The Himalayan Database does not judge disputed cases: we only record what we are told by people with knowledge of the situation. The database is marking Miss Oh's claim as disputed, but not as unrecognized (it has been recognized by the Corean Alpine Club, and others).

Best wishes,
Elizabeth Hawley


Source
User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Karrar Haidri » Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:18 am

Oh Eun-Sun loses summit status at Adventure Stats

Image

http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19768
User Avatar
Karrar Haidri

 
Posts: 244
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Skardu, Baltistan, Pakistan
Thanked: 28 times in 18 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby MarthaP » Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:43 pm

For something as historically significant as this, there should be NO doubt regarding the summit and its verification. Find something - a photo of an altimeter, anything - that could prove its validity. With the eye on the prize, how difficult is that to plan?

And this is not politically motivated? Convince me how meaningless Korean politics are right now and I'll buy into it. Otherwise, this is all about nationalism and a who's-on-first mentality. It's a shame the pristine world of mountaineering need be dragged into it.
User Avatar
MarthaP

 
Posts: 1300
Joined: Sat May 31, 2008 1:13 pm
Location: Evergreen, Colorado
Thanked: 4 times in 1 post

Re:

Postby Buz Groshong » Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:58 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:The KAF's decision is a serious blow to Miss Oh, and I feel very sorry for her because she sincerely believes that she was on Kangchenjunga's summit, and she believes that because her head Sherpa, Dawa Wangchuk, said they were there.

As to who was the first woman to summit all 14 8,000ers, I have no opinion for publication. The Himalayan Database does not judge disputed cases: we only record what we are told by people with knowledge of the situation. The database is marking Miss Oh's claim as disputed, but not as unrecognized (it has been recognized by the Corean Alpine Club, and others).

Best wishes,
Elizabeth Hawley


Source


She really ought to have known she was there rather than depending on her Sherpa's opinion. If she doesn't know she was there, then how are we supposed to believe that she was?
User Avatar
Buz Groshong

 
Posts: 2807
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 10:58 pm
Location: Alexandria, Virginia, United States
Thanked: 675 times in 475 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:53 pm

+1

Even there are many other doubts about her climb, pics, other climbers' comments... All of them have already been explained in the topic.

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=19771
User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Karrar Haidri » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:32 am

User Avatar
Karrar Haidri

 
Posts: 244
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Skardu, Baltistan, Pakistan
Thanked: 28 times in 18 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Petro » Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:53 pm

Of course all those guys racing for the crowns could start using satellite beacons like SPOT for example but no, they won't... That would be to easy.
User Avatar
Petro

 
Posts: 51
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 12:59 pm
Location: Warsaw, Poland
Thanked: 4 times in 3 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby NewDayRising » Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:38 am

Do all the 8000m peak finishers have photographic evidence to back up their claims?
User Avatar
NewDayRising

 
Posts: 647
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:37 pm
Thanked: 19 times in 17 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Diego Sahagún » Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:43 am

Nope
User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Karrar Haidri » Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:09 am

Best of ExplorersWeb 2010 Award Winner: Edurne Pasaban, 14x8000ers
http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19830

Image
User Avatar
Karrar Haidri

 
Posts: 244
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Skardu, Baltistan, Pakistan
Thanked: 28 times in 18 posts

Re: No woman has ever scaled 14,8000ers who will be the firs

Postby Diego Sahagún » Thu Mar 17, 2011 4:24 pm

She's written a book: 'Catorce veces ochomil', la historia de 'una alpinista y una persona'

http://www.atlantico.net/noticia/130955 ... a/persona/
User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Previous

Return to News

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.