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Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby Blair » Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:03 pm

I been eyeballin that mountain and twilight pillar and some other routes on NCP for aWhile!

I know some folks that have done it and said good things.My friend Pat has done it, I prob wont talk w him for aWhile but when I do I will hit him up. I know thats not much help, sorry

I bet Chief knows about it...

Found this....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... &tn=0&mr=0
This may be what you want

Also,
heres a thread about NCP's Firebird Ridge. Cant find much else on Twilight, but its somethin
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... #msg901738

Hope this helps.



What a great mountain
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby kevin trieu » Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:26 pm

I have done with Miguel in 18 hours c2c last summer. It is 5.8. I think it is in Peter Croft's book. There's some beautiful climbing up there. The descend on the NNE ridge is the crux of the climb. Chat with me on FB later Vitaliy.
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby rhyang » Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:27 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Did anyone here climb Twilight Pillar of Norman Clyde peak?
Author of the SP page is unfortunately dead.
I saw it on my way to Middle Pal and kind of fell in love. Would love to hear any feedback from those who did this route. Which guide books/instructions were helpful?


No, the page author is very much alive, and climbs at PG Sunnyvale (he and his wife were out of town for a while). He and user 'dug' climbed it in 2006. Miguel Forjan and Kevin Trieu climbed it in a day last year too. I've also been thinking about the route.
Taaaake !
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby tb00957 » Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:01 pm

Rick and I did it in 2007. Here is the trip report.

http://peakclimbing.org/scree/2007/SEP_2007_SCREE.html

The route is super fun, the approach death slab and the 4th class descent, not so. We climbed with double, but only did single route raps except the last one, so worried about rope getting stuck.

Cheers,

Linda
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby rhyang » Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:15 pm

Rick wrote:The normal descent involves heading down the ridge to the northwest. This goes past the juncture where the Firebird Ridge joins this ridge. Just past this juncture, and I mean just past, is a gap with at least one rappel sling which marks the descent down the fourth class North Face. This piece of rock real estate is the most miserable, loose, ugly, never ending, boring, dry (sometimes), insufferable, doo-doo-esque section of half baked granite in the Sierra. Or in California. Or in the world. It is even worse than the Mountaineers Couloir on Mt Whitney, if that is possible. I consider the fact that I have climbed UP this route twice to be a point of personal embarrassment in my so called mountaineering career, such as it is. But I digress.


:lol: :lol: :lol: Rick's trip reports always make me laugh.
Taaaake !
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby fossana » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:43 am

Someone I know in town just did it recently. Email me if you have specific questions not answered by Kevin or Rick's TR.
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby mrchad9 » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:47 am

An orgy of thanking here... Dry yourself off when you're done Vittles!
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby kovarpa » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:56 pm

I have to fix up that route page now that dug deleted his photos... sorry. maybe next week.
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby kovarpa » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:58 pm

oh, and as far climbing it - it wasn't bad but I wouldn't necessarily care to repeat... maybe 3 stars out of 5? It just wasn't all that challenging. In the same category, I liked North Butt of Goode lot more. Still a good day in the mountains.
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby Matt Worster » Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:35 pm

kovarpa wrote:I liked North Butt of Goode lot more.


Now THAT'S a great climb! And the sweetest descent you may ever take.
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby rhyang » Mon Oct 04, 2010 2:14 am

kovarpa wrote:It just wasn't all that challenging.


This coming from Pavel means that it will be a struggle for me :mrgreen:
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby Matt Worster » Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:48 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:
Matt Worster wrote:
kovarpa wrote:I liked North Butt of Goode lot more.


Now THAT'S a great climb! And the sweetest descent you may ever take.


On my 'to do' list yet.... haven't given it a thought in a long while now. Hmmmmm.........

Cheers Matt
DMT


One reason it is a favorite is a member of the FA party: TM Herbert. Stories of him just keep me in stitches, and I enjoy sharing history. Another of my favorites is the North Arete of BCS, with Galen on the FA team. Makes it a little more special, for some reason, to think about some of the Valley climbers coming out to the east side and reveling.

Another reason is awesome weather that day and a great partner. Both help!
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Re: Norman Clyde peak-Twilight Pillar

Postby bobh » Tue Oct 05, 2010 1:43 am

I did it a few weeks ago. It's a beautiful line and a great peak. The climbing is only OK - the statement above comparing it to Goode is apt. The route is steep and exposed with considerable loose rock, not too hard, but the loose stuff keeps one on edge. Worth doing, even twice, but not the gem of the Sierra. We approached in from the right, and did five roped pitches.

The descent is long, loose, complex, and inobvious. At one point, we decided to follow a line of cairns along a ledge, down a gulley, back across another ledge, across a slab --- and ended up at the cairns we'd started at. And this was the fourth time I'd been down that descent. Sheesh.

A light rack and a bunch of runners is sufficient. Bring some non-sewn webbing to leave on the descent. People do it in a day, but you could get hosed on the descent, and Finger Lake is a truly beautiful camp. I'd recommend camping out at Finger or the lake west of and ~500 above Finger. Approach beta - don't walk around the east side of Finger, instead, cross the outlet and pick up a trail heading up the slope to the west. This avoids some talus, is the shortest route, and spares some hassle of getting around Finger.

Have fun!
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