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North Peak Ice conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:37 pm

Hey Friends of Friends,

Want to head up some chute with my helmet, thinking first part of Sept. Anyone been near North Peak as of late?
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:05 am

always good ice in clyde meadow
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:49 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:always good ice in clyde meadow


Oh, I know, young Vitaliy. I know.

Image

I'm thinking Vnotch, something on North, maybe Mendel right, something. I need to put some more scratches on my tools, apparently. I'm just really worried about which ice angle estimations I can trust. I know I can climb up to 23 degrees ice (if it's 31 degrees outside), but any colder or any steeper and I turn into a pumpkin. Send us a cold snap, baby Jesus.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 22, 2012 5:55 pm

I'm 99% sure you would have great ice in mendel right. Go get on it.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:24 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:I'm 99% sure you would have great ice in mendel right. Go get on it.


Can't until probably 2nd weekend of Sept. Why don't you head there soon, measure your bulge for me, and post the results?
Burchey

 
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:45 pm

nellis wrote:You're a bit of a follower aren't you Butchy?


I don't follow what you mean, if that's what you mean.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Bob Burd » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:12 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:I'm 99% sure you would have great ice in mendel right. Go get on it.


Looked great just last week. Both ice and airplane parts - what more could you ask for?

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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:16 pm

Bob Burd wrote:
Vitaliy M. wrote:I'm 99% sure you would have great ice in mendel right. Go get on it.


Looked great just last week. Both ice and airplane parts - what more could you ask for?

Image


Bob, that looks like hell. Can't make out much up in the chute. Seems like more dirt than ice, but then again I am an idiot.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Bob Burd » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:43 pm

Burchey wrote:Bob, that looks like hell. Can't make out much up in the chute. Seems like more dirt than ice, but then again I am an idiot.


It was in jest. But the photo is real (from Aug 12) as were the airplane parts.

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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:54 pm

Bob Burd wrote:
Burchey wrote:Bob, that looks like hell. Can't make out much up in the chute. Seems like more dirt than ice, but then again I am an idiot.


It was in jest. But the photo is real (from Aug 12) as were the airplane parts.

Image


Thanks Bob, I love a good airplane part as much as the next guy, I just can't clip my draw to it so I'll probably pass. In all seriousness, it appears that the ice Vitaliy got on in the right side a short while back might be toast or rubbish.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:38 pm

I am sure the actual ice is in- you can't see it till you are actually in the right couloir (at least I couldn't). There is a rock fall danger (always), and I would not go into that couloir in the middle of summer. Wait till it is a bit colder. Maybe end of Sept, or check the weather and do it during colder temps. When we did it in spring there was still a bunch of rock fall. And plenty of rock for the leader to kill his 2nd with. Also some of the even 13cm screws do not go in more than half way-makes the moves above exciting. Have to be extra careful there. I would suggest not doing this particular couloir for someone whose status was confirmed-
Burchey wrote:but then again I am an idiot.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:48 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:I am sure the actual ice is in- you can't see it till you are actually in the right couloir (at least I couldn't). There is a rock fall danger (always), and I would not go into that couloir in the middle of summer. Wait till it is a bit colder. Maybe end of Sept, or check the weather and do it during colder temps. When we did it in spring there was still a bunch of rock fall. And plenty of rock for the leader to kill his 2nd with. Also some of the even 13cm screws do not go in more than half way-makes the moves above exciting. Have to be extra careful there. I would suggest not doing this particular couloir for someone whose status was confirmed-
Burchey wrote:but then again I am an idiot.


The earliest I could get at it would be mid Sept anyway. I'd want it to get colder at night before I'd head up that or the Palisade Notches - less likely you'd have company from above.

As far as the idiot-thing...fun fact - I just use my "new tame persona" when I'm climbing something serious. I can switch back and forth. Trouble is, when I'm using that persona, I get lost because I can't tell what mountain I'm on. Is this Humpreys?
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby bobpickering » Sat Sep 22, 2012 3:47 am

Come on! Hasn't anybody been up North Peak lately?
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Kahuna » Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:29 am

bobpickering wrote:Come on! Hasn't anybody been up North Peak lately?



Bob...

Right side is completely hard neve to the top.

Left is a mix for two p's and then fizzles out.
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