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opinions on ferrari route on Alpamayo/CB/Peru

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opinions on ferrari route on Alpamayo/CB/Peru

Postby bledl » Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:02 pm

I just wanted to hear your opinions on the Ferrari route!

I heard, that the route isn`t climbed any more recently because of huge icefall danger (collapsing seracs). Anyone knows something about the conditions in the last season? Or is the main danger other climbers throwing ice down the gully?
If Ferrari is not a good idea to climb, did anyone climb the French direct in 2009? Any steeper than 70°?

Thanx!
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Postby farrgo » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:13 am

Alpamayo is getting climbed regularly. I'm not sure it matters if its one couloir to the right or left... just follow the pack. Shouldn't be a problem.
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Postby Gilles » Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:51 am

Although I do not have first hand experience/information, maybe this answers some of your questions:

http://cosleyhouston.com/alpamayo.htm
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Postby gibbonpower » Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:09 am

Climbed French direct in june 2009. The serac covers about 1 / 3 of the face over the Ferrari route. I would definitely not want to expose myself a half day under it if you have alternative routes. In addition, the top ridge is also very exposed.
French Direct is about 70 degrees, with slightly gentler slope at the beginning. The last rope length to the top was fairly loose in this summers. Overall, the climb was pretty smooth. We had good weather conditions for our top-attack with the result that we were 7 rope team on French direct that day, but it went smoothly.
The Bergschrund was no problem to pass this year (but do not know how it was under the Ferrari route).
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