My girlfriend and I are heading down to Patagonia in January; it will be our first time there and we intend to spend much of it in PN Los Glaciares. We both have rock/snow/ice/glacier climbing experience and would like to attempt an ascent towards the easier end of the difficulty spectrum (if we get lucky with the weather) on this trip. Several of the so called 'trekking peaks' (e.g. Cerro Solo or Punta Velluda via Paso Superior) sound interesting and appropriate for our first visit.
I have two questions for anyone with experience in this region:
What condition are the glaciers (e.g. Glaciar de Los Tres) likely to be in at this time of year (mid-to-late January), especially with respect to crevasses? I assume we should plan on roped glacier travel?
I have read that 'climbers' are required to register at the parque headquarters and obtain a special climbing permit. What constitutes a 'climber' in the eyes of the local authorities? Is a permit necessary to ascend 'trekking peaks'? Is there some other litmus test for when you need a climbing permit? How rigorously is this enforced?
Thanks in advance for any information or suggestions.