djxtreme wrote:okay, here it goes.
First off, I have done relatively extensive research, but would like other basic opinions on this.

I will have about 3-4 weeks in Peru to do some climbing. I will be solo and have intentions of climbing that way, unless a change of heart comes from other recommendations.
I am looking at doing Pisco and Chopicalqui. Without being horribly experienced, does this, at first glance, seem unreasonable to you?

Please give first impressions and thoughts on the topic.
I will be travelling with only my 80 liter pack, so am hoping to find a climbing pack there.
I will have 1 55cm straight mountaineeering ax, crampons, and mountaineering boots.
Experienced information about the temperature, equipment, difficulty, etc. is very appreciated.

Also, I am in NO WAY set on those peaks. Please recommend anything. I just want to get...up there.

I can't answer any of your questions, but your post reminded me of this Pisco trip report (not mine, obviously). I don't mean to imply you're anything like the author; I just find the report to be an entertaining read, and maybe there's a bit of useful information in it.

I wouldn't do either of those solo. You're taking a pretty big chance with the glacier travel on both those peaks. Urus and Ishinca are both good, as is Vallunaraju (although there's a bit of crevasse danger on the normal snow route).

I would recommend that you acclimatize on something like Urus/Ishinca and then hire a guide for something bigger, like Chopicalqui or Tocclaraju. The guides are relatively affordable, from what I understand.

Good advise, Tom.
Both Urus Este and Ishinca are good solos.I wouldn't solo Chopi unless I really had it together. Pisco might be doable. Vullunaraju would be a good choice as well.
Partners can be found on the bulleten board at the Casa de Cuias, or Zarela's, Montrek, Galixey ect..

I soloed Pisco last July. The crevasses weren't too bad. Then again, there was a really solid boot pack up the glacier. However, I do have a rather frightening picture of a recently collapsed snow bridge around 17,000 feet. It is definitely a serious mountain to solo and you should carefully consider your other options before doing that.

Plus Urus and Ishinca share the same basecamp as Tocllaraju. Quebrada Ishinca is a great valley to do numerous easy peaks out of. Also, it is easy to meet other climbers in Huaraz (which you should definitely try to do if you want to climb chopicalqui or tocllaraju IMO).

djxtreme wrote:What kind of temperatures should be expected? I have a pair of these boots...how do you feel about them for those peaks? http://www.backcountry.com/store/LSP0021/La-Sportiva-Trango-S-EVO-GTX-Mountaineering-Boot-Mens.html

Night temperatures will be around 0 F at high camps. Daytime temps will vary widely depending on sun/shade. In the sun it can be pretty warm, above freezing, but you will need warm clothes to climb through the coldest part of the night. The Cordillera Blanca has pretty mild weather for mountains that size, but don't underestimate things. Even if you are going solo, you can browse the web and find recommended gear lists from guide services offering trips to the area.

I haven't climbed Urus, Ishinca, or Pisco, but I climbed some other nearby peaks and would recommend double boots unless you know your feet stay really warm. You might be able to get by with a heavier single (Nepals) if you don't go for a 6,000m peak, but if you have to ask you should probably be conservative and go with doubles.

1. The La Sportiva Trango boots your referenced are , in my opinon, a bit lite for the Blanca. If you are doing peaks that can be summited from a base camp in one day, ie. Urus Este or Ishinca, then they would be ok provided the weather is good and you make good time. If it gets cold or you spend much longer on a climb than intended because of conditions ect. then you are prone to cold injury. It can happen. Double boots will be good insurance against cold injury problems. You can always dry your liners and have warm feet, even if it is way cold.
2.http://www.mountainproject.com/v/intern ... /106142981
If you are going to solo, then the Ishinca would be a good valley to visit. Easy, one day approach. And , after you are acclimated, the easier 5000 meter peaks, Urus and Ishinca, can be done in a day from BC if desired. Tocllaraju will require a high camp. I soloed Urus and Ishinca with no problems. Keep in mind these are high, alpine peaks and conditions change season to season, sometimes, day to day!
3. Last year in late June/July, the overnight temps in base camp, Ishinca Valley dipped to freezing. Afternoons could be quite warm in the sun. As soon as the sun is gone, it gets cold. More so at the high camps for Ishinca and Tocllaraju. As said in the post above, if the wind is blowing a bit , it could get to 0* degrees. Feel free to contact me with detailed questions, no problem.