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planning to climb kangyatse

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planning to climb kangyatse

Postby abhishek77 » Sun Jul 24, 2011 1:58 pm

i am visiting ladakh next month and i am planning to climb kangyatse (6400m). I have heard that it is quite technical and requires experience. what is the technical difficulty like and the route that goes upt to the main summit?

if it is too technical then i would prefer to climb the lower top of kangyatse at 6200m which is less technical.
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Re: planning to climb kangyatse

Postby dmiki » Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:40 pm

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Re: planning to climb kangyatse

Postby kongxh » Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:04 am

I was just there in July trying for KY1. We followed the route from the East-Southeast, starting from the KY1 BC at ~5300m(different from the KY2 BC) . The initial part is a very small glacier crossing, followed by approx 700m of about PD standard up one of the ribs. This section is purely on rock, boulders, and loose scree. After this you reach the shoulder approx 6100m, where the technical section starts. We did not attempt this as our group was not experienced enough. Based on what i saw, it involves navigating the ridge (somewhat corniced) to the base of the final steep section (approx 10 pitches of technical climbing).

KY2 is more forgiving, snow slopes of about 45-50 degrees. In either case, prior acclimatization is key as the guide agencies like to rush things along.
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Re: planning to climb kangyatse

Postby hamik » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:15 pm

Contact this guy: http://www.its.caltech.edu/~pt/

He spent a lot of time in Ladakh a couple summers ago and climbed KY2.
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