Hello,

Was wondering how you folks who are comfortable solo'ing class-4+ without rope got to where you are. I've been taking yearly trips to the Sierra for all kinds of class-3 fun, and would like to get to the point where I'm able to go beyond that if a route requires it. (Not necessarily sustained, but at least for short sections.)

There are climbing gyms nearby and I'm wondering whether to take up bouldering, or if taking some classes on climbing and then practicing on the walls would be more valuable.

Any advice would be appreciated!

I find class 4 to be very much in the head. I don't do well with heights but I can man up through class 4 sections if I just stay focused, my girlfriend on the other hand can just bounce around with a 2k drop right there. The best training for this is of course, more of this,

I would recommend the bouldering and gym climbing classes. Once you become proficient on lower class 5 moves and boulders where you can push it as hard as possible without the exposure or risk of falling the class 4 should feel like it's well within your level of ability. As Tonka said, staying focused is the important thing and don't hesitate to turn around if you're not "feeling it" on a given day. My friend and I soloed the (upper) Exum ridge on the Grand Teton one day even though we didn't plan it. We just started climbing the route and both of us felt great that day so we continued to the summit without pulling out the rope.

Bob

If the logistics permit, consider getting a crashpad, going to the local crag, and free soloing the first 10-15' of some routes up to maybe 5.6. It'll put you on real rock, and you don't have to work around gym times, fees, etc. Plus, bouldering problems often start from overhung or contorted positions that won't replicate the Class 4 conditions you'll find in the mountains.

Sometimes when I want to get on the rock but don't feel like dealing with all the gear, I take my pad out and work on the opening moves of hard routes. It's fun, a good workout, and good for developing technique.

My pad is also large enough that I can sleep on it when unfolded, something to consider if you do a lot of solo climbing trips. Two for one.

Oh, and practice downclimbing. Class 4 is a lot scarier going down than up.

I agree with reboyles, to a point. Certainly bouldering will make you stronger, but bouldering or gym climbing will not teach you to deal with the exposure of class '4+' climbing. Instead, climb exposed 5th class terrain, even if it is just on top rope or following a trusted friend. A few outdoor sessions with an AMGA or IFMGA certified guide would be a good investment.

Or find a trust worthy and experienced friend who will lead you up multi-pitch routes at moderate grades. Climbing technical routes, even following, will do more for you head space than climbing plastic holds in a gym or bouldering 15' high routes. Not that there is no value in bouldering or climbing in the gym, there is, particularly since that is convenient, but you need to get high to get comfortable with it. Climbing exposed 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 routes will greatly improve your confidence on class '4+' routes.

On anther note, I noticed that you live in Reston. I lived in Herndon during my high school years and had a quite a few classmates who were from Reston. I've heard that there is single pitch climbing along the Potomac, but I suspect Seneca Rocks may be the closest good crag to practice 5th class climbing. Again, a couple weekends camping out and climbing with a guide on 5th class routes will help a lot.

I also agree with Bob, down climb everything you can, especially when on top rope. Down climbing is a very important skill, particularly if you are soloing.

Best of luck,

EB

ExcitableBoy wrote:On anther note, I noticed that you live in Reston. I lived in Herndon during my high school years and had a quite a few classmates who were from Reston. I've heard that there is single pitch climbing along the Potomac, but I suspect Seneca Rocks may be the closest good crag to practice 5th class climbing. Again, a couple weekends camping out and climbing with a guide on 5th class routes will help a lot.

Oh, I didn't see he's in Reston.

Tbaranski, I just moved away from the Herndon/Reston area after living there for a long time. Seneca is awesome but probably more than you need right now. However, you have a great resource just 15 minutes away: Great Falls. In the gorge there, there are numerous crags and probably something like 200 routes from 5.0-5.13. In addition, there are many outcrops on which one can put together Class 3 and 4 scrambling routes. And across the river just past the American Legion Bridge is Carderock.

http://www.summitpost.org/great-falls-c ... rge/283338

It's very easy to set up topropes since there are lots of trees and boulders and the approaches are from the top. I would get the local guidebooks and look at some of the pages here and jump on some of the 5.0-5.2 routes. After all, many feel that Class 4-5.2 is all about the same. If you want, I can recommend some that are good to free solo if you find the nerve for that. Then, yeah, get solid by doing 5.6-5.8 on a rope as EB suggests, and Class 4 will come naturally to you. 5.2 on a rope will quickly become very boring.

Carderock is also good for bouldering as well because much of it has a flat dirt base. Great Falls is not so good because the crags are mostly by the river and the bases are rocky and uneven.

You might also check out the Mountaineering section of the PATC. They do meetup groups at Great Falls, Carderock, Sugarloaf, and out in Shenandoah. I don't know if you need to be a member in order to go, but check out their website if you're interested.

Gyms often offer outdoor classes at Great Falls and Carderock, but I'd be wary, as I've seen some pretty sketchy things by the gym leaders. Once I even overheard one telling his group it was his first time climbing outdoors. Years back, I took some courses with REI on basics and on anchors, and the instructors were very good and what I learned, particularly about anchors, was invaluable.

I agree with alot of what eb, Boyles, and Bob said. One thing you can't re create is conditions and loose rock. On class 4, I kind of smack rock or tap it with my knuckles before weighting it. I do it subconsciously now. I had a friend almost die on the upper slabs on the Grand due to a loose flake. That's where the focus comes in. Good luck! Old Rag in VA is another good area for scrambling.

I have to admit I've only climbed in a gym once and it was okay but lacked the conditions you'll find on a real climb such as freezing cold hands, wind, rain, snow, blazing heat, loose rock, etc. And the advice from others here is very good. I think what I was getting at was that you need to practice all of the rock climbing techniques such as face climbing, friction, crack climbing, mantels, pull-ups, etc. so that you don't encounter moves that you have never attempted before. As for exposure, nothing will substitute for the real thing. My friends and I used to mix it up by spending one day on the boulders and the next day doing roped climbing on one pitch routes.

Bob

I didn't read what everybody said but just climb heaps and it will happen.

Or in winter find a nice slope with a good run out. Make sure you know how to self arrest and make sure it is really solid snow. 40 degree angle should be adequate. Then climb up and down the slope with only one ice axe and no crampons. If done right it should feel like you are about to fall off at every step. Then go and jump on some 4th class in summer and it will feel like you are using the elevator at the airport. EASY.


Also never take what you read on the internet seriously because in climbing only experience can show you the way.

All,

Thanks a bunch for the recommendations. I think my big issue at the moment is that I have zero skills above class-3 -- I'm not familiar with a lot of the terminology, types of holds, techniques, etc. So it seems like some time with an instructor to start would be wise. Great Falls sounds like a perfect spot.

Done alot of solo class 4 in Colorado 10-15 years ago. Need to approach it with great respect and must always be fresh and not tired. There is no room for error when no one will find your body for several days.

I just climbed myself into it after getting completely comfortable on class 3 with really big exposure.

Need also to practice down climbing a lot.

Only class 4 that I have done in the NW is Lane Peak, in the Tatoosh Range directly south of Mt. Rainier.

i used the guidebook "75 Scrambles in Washington" by Peggy Goldman, Mountaineers, 2001.

Now, I think that I would climb up and rap down.

"Class 4" is not a well-defined rating. For sure it is harder than class 3, but it could also be something in the low class 5 range that was just thrown into the junk bucket of "class 4."

There is only ONE WAY to get comfortable free soloing class 4. Gyms and bouldering are never the answer to any question.

To free solo class 4, you must be a very competent class 5 rock climber and a competent class 5 free-solo climber. As Mitch said, being a competent down-climber is key to being a competent free-solo climber.

When I was poor and couldn't afford to leave even rappel slings behind, we down-climbed our routes and didn't leave any gear behind. Damn right we got good at down-climbing!

I went on to spend many years free-soloing alpine rock routes to 5.7. Loose class 4 is still hard even if you're comfortable free-soloing class 5. I've been turned back free soloing on class 4 routes as many times as on class 5 routes.

Free soloing is also a good way to die.

The rock on class 5 routes is usually a lot better than loose class 4 shit, so I'd recommend that you focus on rock-climbing and free soloing on solid class 5 rock before trying to free solo loose class 4.

Read through this thread, lots of good advice here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2877554/High-Sierra-Ridge-Traverses

BigMitch wrote:Done alot of solo class 4 in Colorado 10-15 years ago. Need to approach it with great respect and must always be fresh and not tired. There is no room for error when no one will find your body for several days.

I just climbed myself into it after getting completely comfortable on class 3 with really big exposure.

Need also to practice down climbing a lot.

Only class 4 that I have done in the NW is Lane Peak, in the Tatoosh Range directly south of Mt. Rainier.

i used the guidebook "75 Scrambles in Washington" by Peggy Goldman, Mountaineers, 2001.

Now, I think that I would climb up and rap down.

I hate to be a buzz kill, but the standard route on lane peak is at most class 3. Could you have been off route possibly? Some people I know even have called it class 2+

Again not being a dick I just want to point this out for others who might be thinking they have done 4th class, then getting overconfident.

Matt Lemke wrote:

BigMitch wrote:Done alot of solo class 4 in Colorado 10-15 years ago. Need to approach it with great respect and must always be fresh and not tired. There is no room for error when no one will find your body for several days.

I just climbed myself into it after getting completely comfortable on class 3 with really big exposure.

Need also to practice down climbing a lot.

Only class 4 that I have done in the NW is Lane Peak, in the Tatoosh Range directly south of Mt. Rainier.

i used the guidebook "75 Scrambles in Washington" by Peggy Goldman, Mountaineers, 2001.

Now, I think that I would climb up and rap down.

I hate to be a buzz kill, but the standard route on lane peak is at most class 3. Could you have been off route possibly? Some people I know even have called it class 2+

Again not being a dick I just want to point this out for others who might be thinking they have done 4th class, then getting overconfident.

I'd say the grassy ledges approach on Wolf's Head is probably the best example of class 4/5 although it's not very loose. However, grassy and wet is almost as bad. a good example is the couloirs leading from the lower to upper saddle on the Grand. Some are 2/3....if you get in the wrong one it can get to a loose and hairy 4/5.