I was wondering if anyone has been up the SE Glacier route on Ritter lately and if so was curious what the snow/ice conditions are. I'm headed up there next week and was thinking about leaving the crampons at home since its late in the season. Thoughts?

This is a video from July of the last year

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xZgSS4OMv0

You may even have to descend backwards while wearing crampons.

Except that's not the SE glacier route.

You are right. This is not what you call South East glacier route on this website, this is North Face route. However the glacier in the video indeed was south-east of the mountain.

smorlock wrote:I was wondering if anyone has been up the SE Glacier route on Ritter lately and if so was curious what the snow/ice conditions are. I'm headed up there next week and was thinking about leaving the crampons at home since its late in the season. Thoughts?

I climbed Ritter via SE glacier on 9 August, although I skirted the glacier on the right on ascent - that was a mistake. Very loose rock and dirt on steep ice. Descending the glacier was quite easy and probably not more than 30 degrees. I did wear crampons because I was tired and getting sloppy; snow was in Spring corn conditions that afternoon. You'll most likely find deeper sun cups now, which may help without crampons. Depending on time of day you ascend, you may still want some sort of traction device on your feet; it's a long trip to go unprepared.

Simkin wrote:You are right. This is not what you call South East glacier route on this website, this is North Face route. However the glacier in the video indeed was south-east of the mountain.

Southeast of Banner maybe (if you came from Ediza), but not southeast of Ritter. Ritter's SE Glacier description is not unique to this site. It's been in common use since the Climber's Guide was first published in the SCB in the 1930s.

Bob Burd wrote:Southeast of Banner maybe (if you came from Ediza), but not southeast of Ritter. Ritter's SE Glacier description is not unique to this site. It's been in common use since the Climber's Guide was first published in the SCB in the 1930s.

According to Tom Harrison map a large part of the glacier is southeast of Ritter as well. Albeit the map is probably wrong.

Anyway, lake Ediza is definitely southeast. And I am coming from Ediza and pass a glacier on the way. So it is plausible to assume it was what the topic starter called a "Southeast Glacier."

But I already said I was wrong. What was the reason for your post?

I''m confused now! You didn't climb Ritter's SE glacier to get to the north face. So even if the SE glacier in question is passed along the way, this distorted video does not give true representation for the OP's concerns. Can't see it. You didn't climb it. And a bit out of context considering this year's snow coverage. Congrats on your summit!

Oh come on now, folks. I think you're being way to hard on Simkin. He has achieved something I heretofore thought was impossible – making me seasick in the firmament of the High Sierra.

Deb wrote:I''m confused now! You didn't climb Ritter's SE glacier to get to the north face. So even if the SE glacier in question is passed along the way, this distorted video does not give true representation for the OP's concerns. Can't see it. You didn't climb it. And a bit out of context considering this year's snow coverage. Congrats on your summit!

In order not to be confused you should read the postings in the thread before posting into it yourself.

Simkin wrote:

Deb wrote:I''m confused now! You didn't climb Ritter's SE glacier to get to the north face. So even if the SE glacier in question is passed along the way, this distorted video does not give true representation for the OP's concerns. Can't see it. You didn't climb it. And a bit out of context considering this year's snow coverage. Congrats on your summit!

In order not to be confused you should read the postings in the thread before posting into it yourself.

I did read it, thanks for attempting to escort me through. My point is that your distorted video is of absolutely no help to the OP. And nowhere is the SE glacier seen...so THERE!

Deb wrote:I did read it, thanks for attempting to escort me through. My point is that your distorted video is of absolutely no help to the OP. And nowhere is the SE glacier seen...so THERE!

Then you should have seen that Romain had already pointed out that it was not the Southeast glacier route. And I immediately agreed with him. And gave the actual name of the route: North Face.

So how would you classify your behavior?