Hello,

I've got week long trip coming up to the french and swiss alps, where i'm praying for weather and hoping I can get up both Mont Blanc (trois monts) and the Matterhorn (honli).

In the interest of space I don't want to take over two sets of boots, so i'm hoping for feedback from anyone who's climbed them, particularly the Matterhorn.

I've recently worn through my pair of summer boots, meaning the only pair I've currently got are Scarpa Phantom Guides.

Could I get up the Honli ridge in a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides, or are they going to be too stiff? Weight-wise they're as light as many of the B2 boots, but obviously not going to be as good for smearing etc

Or alternatively, if I pick up a set of something lighter like a La sportiva trango, will this be warm enough for the snow plodding up high on Blanc?

thanks in advance!

L

Smearing will not be an issue on the Hörnli unless you are way off route somewhere. The rock tends to be very blocky and most of the climbing is YDS Class 3 and 4 - the Mosley Slabs are low 5th. You will want a crampon compatible boot (and obviously crampons) - on the upper part of the mountain -above the shouder (and maybe even lower) you will almost certainly encounter mixed terrain - . A July photo: http://www.summitpost.org/h-rnli-ridge/824204/c-150235

I am not familiar with the Phantom Guides - I guess it comes down to how comfortable you are in them on easy rock....much of which is in the "if you fall you die" range of exposure.

Lots of climbing photos on the Hörnligrat page here and elsewhere on the web. Take a look - might help with your decision.

will be in Cham mid July and I might see you on the Trois Monts

I am opting for Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTXs - flexible enough for approaches, climbing and mixed ice routes. You should be fine with the Phantom Guides, could be a bit warm though with the current conditions.