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Alpamayo

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
 

Alpamayo

Postby Andinistaloco » Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:55 pm

Has anyone been up this peak recently? The most current news I've heard - which isn't terribly current - was that the Ferrari (and possibly a couple of the nearby others) were in terrible shape and that hardly anyone was going up them. Like I said, this was a while ago. Anyone have more current info on what's been going on there and the conditions of the route/s on the peak?
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Postby Buz Groshong » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:34 pm

Last summer, I heard that nobody was climbing Alpamayo because it was too dangerous. Not many were doing Huascaran either for the same reason. Global warming and receding glaciers probably are the primary cause of the situation, so it probably won't get any better any time soon. They were doing Quitaraju and Artesonraju instead. The guiding companies won't take it off their list of offerings even if they know they can't do it because taking it off the list would lose them business.
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Postby Andinistaloco » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:59 am

Thanks Buz... hmmm, that puts a damper on possible plans. Still, Artesonraju's a heck of a peak, too. THe routes on it must be in better shape....
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Postby Damien Gildea » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:49 am

People have climbed Alpamayo recently, but by the French route, to the side of the old Ferrari route, as the serac danger above is not so bad - though not negligible.

A friend was there two seasons ago and believed that the icefall on the approach was more dangerous, though others have found differently at different times. On the other hand, some people don't have the experience to know when they are in danger, unless something happens.

D
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Postby Andinistaloco » Fri Mar 31, 2006 5:43 am

Ok, thanks for the info....
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Postby Buz Groshong » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:54 pm

As I understand it, the problem with Alpamayo is cornice avalanches. I believe that the danger is pretty much always there, as cornices can break loose at any time (except just after one has totally come down); on Alpamayo you have to climb directly up to them. Artesonraju is a different kind of climb. You might want to read up on the Cordillera Blanca and maybe take a trip down there for some more moderate peaks before you get too set on doing something like Alpamayo or Artesonraju. There are some fantastic mountains down there that are not so difficult or dangerous (like Chopicalqui and Tocllaraju). Of course, if you are up to it there are also some fantastic more difficult peaks like Chacraraju and Taulliraju.
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Postby christoph1972 » Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:26 pm

Buz Groshong wrote:Last summer, I heard that nobody was climbing Alpamayo


A friend of mine did the Alpamayo in 2005:-)


Best regards

Christoph
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Postby Andinistaloco » Sun Apr 02, 2006 2:28 am

Thanks again for the info. Buz, I know you didn't mean to condescend, but believe me, I wouldn't be considering those peaks if they weren't well within my capabilities... I've done quite a bit of that difficulty of climbing in SA, most of it solo. Sounds like you know the area pretty well too. I also see you're from Alexandria - sort of my old stomping ground; I used to live out in Reston myself. Haven't been back in a while but I hear it's gotten huge. Cheers!
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Postby Brad Marshall » Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:56 pm

Hi Walt:

When were you thinking of going and which route would you consider? The Ferrari route looks really nice.

Brad
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Postby Andinistaloco » Mon Apr 03, 2006 3:31 am

Brad, how you doing amigo? I was just in the research phase, really. I've been down to Peru but didn't get the chance to climb in that area - was thinking that both Alpamayo and Artesonraju look pretty nice. I've also wanted to do Huascaran for a while now... but no, I don't have any plans yet. How 'bout you - climbed down that way? There's a lot to be said for it... I was in Boliva for a month and a half and it rained ONE day. Cheers....
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Alpamayo

Postby Cy Kaicener » Mon Apr 03, 2006 12:33 pm

I googled Alpamayo and came up with a few interesting pictures
http://www.sbg.ac.at/mat/staff/revers/alpamayo.html
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