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Climbing Nevado Chachani (near Arequipa, Peru)

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Climbing Nevado Chachani (near Arequipa, Peru)

Postby Andino » Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:22 am

Hello,

I wish to find out about snow conditions on Chachani, to know if crampons and ice axe are really necessary, or if it can be done without ?

- No glacier whatsoever, just snow slopes ?
- Any penitentes ?
- Is it a nicer ascent than El Misti ?

As usual, thank you ! :wink:
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Re: Climbing Nevado Chachani (near Arequipa, Peru)

Postby Ario » Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:03 am

The way things go over there, in few years you might not even need to ask the question :(
I don't know the exact definition of glacier, but what's left is really limited in size (no crevasse to worry about here :wink: )
Snow condition will be in big part function of the snow fall prior to your trip. Penitentes are always possible due to the wind, but same comment as for the glaciers.
In some icy conditions crampons (and / or ice axe) may make the ascent easier but you don't necessarily have to bring them with you as you can rent them at any of the agencies listed in Arequipa Guided Ascent Arrangers for a reasonable price (few $/day each).
In terms of interest, Chachani is probably the "easiest" 6000m summit of Peru. Yet I preferred El Misti for its… mysticism. However if you really want to go for interesting climbs in the Volcanoes of Arequipa range, I would recommend (check the previous link) those of the Cordillera de Ampato (technically more interesting) or the rarely climbed summits of the Cordillera de Chila (most have just had few recorded ascents).
Bonne chance !
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Postby Andino » Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:00 am

As usual Ario, you give great information ! :wink:
Why is Misti nicer than Chachani ? (view on top, ascent... ?)

Basically I look for a nice non-technical ascent near Arequipa, that's why I thought first about Chachani, as it is less crowded than Misti, I heard.
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Postby Ario » Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:59 am

Salut a toi, l’adepte des oeuvres de Moliere ! :wink:
Misti versus Chachani is a subjective choice, I didn’t state one was nicer, I meant Misti was some kind of “Trademark” of Arequipa and that made my choice. Tu sais les gouts et les couleurs…
Just keep in mind, although these mountains have non-technical routes, you are considering high suffering ascents: basically you will be walking on scree, Arequipa is at about 2350m and you most probably will make it to Chachani “trailhead” at about 5000m in 3 hours (4x4) and pitch a tent at 5350m to spend the night. Easy approach + high elevation gain + sleeping above 5000 => Most people suffer a lot of altitude sickness, even those who summit. Misti is slightly better but not much… To ascent these mountains more “comfortably” I would rather suggest an acclimatizing climb (beyond 5000m) 2 to 4 days prior to your Chachani or Misti climb.
Gruss die landsfrau aus lothringen ;-)
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Postby Andinistaloco » Sat Sep 02, 2006 4:55 am

I'd agree with Ario. Acclimitization is going to be the big problem. I did Chachani a few years back and felt like someone was sticking a fork in my ear - it hurt that bad. Just bring all your gear - hell, you can get a ride up so high that extra gear is no problem... and take what you need. But above all, be acclimitized - that's the big thing on Ch. or El Misti.... I might try to do it someplace else even, as Arequipa isn't that high (8K?).
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Postby MichaelJ » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:04 am

For what it's worth: Chachani is basically a scree pile with a bit of snow and ice, probably the most boring thing I've climbed on five continents. Crampons would be useful on the steep, icy traverse from base camp, but an ax is essential in case you slip. My advice: if you're going all the way to Peru, climb a real mountain. Skip the choss in the south and head to Huaraz.
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