I posted this question in the General section as well. I'm looking for advice on how to manage the load. From the airport to base camp, I'll have a lot of stuff for a 2 week trip, including: tent, sleeping pad, cookset and stove, fuel extra clothes etc. that I really don't want to carry to the summit.
What backpack did you use on your trip? Did you take a separate, smaller summit pack?
What would be your ideal pack size on this trip?

What backpack did you use on your trip? Did you take a separate, smaller summit pack? What would be your ideal pack size on this trip?

I didn't take two backpacks, but only a small overnight pack (maybe 50L?). I did tend to pack pretty light back then and tend to take more stuff now.



There are lockers in the huts (or at least there were) so you can leave stuff behind. Personally, I always just take one pack (even if a bit big on summit day), but that is just my preference.

On Itza we used the alpine club hut so we locked it up. The other advice on Itza is good. On Orizaba we stayed at the hut both times. The first time a blizzard cut our trip short (high point was the hut) the second we hired someone to watch our gear. Depending on who you use to drive you up to the hut they can assist in getting a watcher.

Pack size for Itza was a 5000 cu/in only because that was the only pack with me on the trip. For Orizaba I used a 40 L summit pack.

Get a large duffle bag to pack everything in on your flight down. Then repack as you need for your trip. You could even leave the duffle at a hostel/hotel you stay at prior to your mountain time. Cheers!

Rent-a-car?

If you do, don't plan on making it up to Pierda Grande on Orizaba. Not a chance.

Personally, I think renting a car in Mexico is pretty crazy as it is.

pearson wrote:

sloggmeister wrote:I posted this question in the General section as well. I'm looking for advice on how to manage the load. From the airport to base camp, I'll have a lot of stuff for a 2 week trip, including: tent, sleeping pad, cookset and stove, fuel extra clothes etc. that I really don't want to carry to the summit.
What backpack did you use on your trip? Did you take a separate, smaller summit pack?
What would be your ideal pack size on this trip?

How are you traveling in Mexico? Bus? Rent-a-car? etc?

We're winging it. No car. I plan on taking a bus out of Mexico City and a cab to Nevado. I don't know how I'm going to get over to Ixta, but I'm sure we'll hire someone to drive us. Any ideas? On Orizaba, I've heard a lot of good things about Sr. Reyes. I'm leaning towards staying at his hotel and hiring him to drive us up. What do you think?

We're winging it. No car. I plan on taking a bus out of Mexico City and a cab to Nevado.

You can take a bus all the way to the turn off to Nevado Toluca below the Albergue. From the city of Toluca, ask for a bus to Sultepec, but get off at Raices. This is where the dirt road takes off for Nevado Toluca.

I don't know how I'm going to get over to Ixta, but I'm sure we'll hire someone to drive us.

You can take a bus to Amecameca and one town slightly closer, the name of which escapes my mind. From there, you will have many offers for rides for a fee to La Joya. You just have to walk around town and people will likely want to drive you.

Sounds like you already have it figured out for Orizaba. The north side is definately more scenic than the south, but the south is less crowded.

I took WAY too much gear on Orizaba! I brought a harness, pickets, ropes, pulleys, etc! None of that stuff is needed on this mountain (not on the Jamapa route anyway...) We also walked from Tlachichuca to Piedre Grande which took two days- and, hence, we took more food than most people. As a result, our packs were way too big!!!!! My pack weighed about 50 pounds or so, and partner's weighed about 60 pounds. If I had to do it again, I would have brought a 30 liter pack- and kept the weight under 25 pounds. Mexico is a fun country to explore- don't be inhibited by a huge pack. You don't need much for Orizaba, particularly if you drive to Piedre Grande. be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe though- you will need them for a safe ascent.


The big hut at Piedre Grande is okay.... It aint no Swiss hut for sure, but it is reasonably pleasant. The other hut is missing most of its roof- but it blocks most of the wind at night. As always, bring ear-plugs to minimize the effects of the farting, pissing, groaning, coughing, snoring, and chatting that is so common in mountaineering huts!

Have fun on your trip!!!! I still think of Orizaba all the time!

Scott Patterson wrote:

What backpack did you use on your trip? Did you take a separate, smaller summit pack? What would be your ideal pack size on this trip?

There are lockers in the huts (or at least there were) so you can leave stuff behind. Personally, I always just take one pack (even if a bit big on summit day), but that is just my preference.

How do you lock your stuff up in the lockers in the huts? Do you have to bring your own lock?

A technique that worked really well for me when I went to Orizaba (and was the envy of my climbing partners!) was to put my backpack and climbing gear inside a rolling duffle with convertable backpack straps. This saved my butt many times, especially when walking across town or even across the airport. I was able to load everything into that duffle, and it was never over the size or weight limit of the airline. The cool thing was that long pointy sharp things (like ice axe, hiking poles, etc.) could all be stashed inside.

As far as which pack did I take? I actually had two packs... one was a small day pack/summit pack (which doubled as a carry on) and the other was an ancient, medium sized Lowe Trek. I've since upgraded packs, but that combination worked out very nicely for me.

bajaandy wrote:A technique that worked really well for me when I went to Orizaba (and was the envy of my climbing partners!) was to put my backpack and climbing gear inside a rolling duffle with convertable backpack straps. This saved my butt many times, especially when walking across town or even across the airport. I was able to load everything into that duffle, and it was never over the size or weight limit of the airline. The cool thing was that long pointy sharp things (like ice axe, hiking poles, etc.) could all be stashed inside.

As far as which pack did I take? I actually had two packs... one was a small day pack/summit pack (which doubled as a carry on) and the other was an ancient, medium sized Lowe Trek. I've since upgraded packs, but that combination worked out very nicely for me.

I don't have a rolling duffel, but I do have a large duffel. My plan is to carry my crap around Mexico in a Osprey Aether 90, and carry a separate duffel with my extra stuff- including my 50L Deuter pack which is very comfortable and which I'll use as a summit pack. It's one that I've come to love.
I also have a lightweight large duffel that I can put my big backpack in for the plane ride. It'll roll up and strap on easily (or stowe in the other duffel).
The big issue for me is still storage: where to keep that extra stuff while climbing. How did you deal with that?