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Ama Dablam vs. Pumori

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Ama Dablam vs. Pumori

Postby radson » Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:15 pm

Has anyone climbed both these mountains? Which would be the more difficult on the standard routes using fixed lines. I have heard pumori is objectively more dangerous (avalanches) but Ama Dablam more difficult overall.

Any comments?
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Postby tauru007 » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:47 pm

Hey Radson,
From what I've heard, Pumori's primary objective is avalanche. And when I was at Ama Dablam last October, teams had to turn back from Pumori because of severe avalanches. Ama Dablam, though technically difficult, was awesome. The fixed ropes are there is you need them -- and they provide a good "route" so route finding was easy. I have on my personal website lots of photos of the climb -- OCT 2005.
Good luck!
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Ama Dablam vs Pumori

Postby Cautious » Tue Dec 19, 2006 4:04 pm

Hi Radson,

Much depends on what you want from a climb. Ama Dablam, though more technically challenging is a lot more fun. Pumori. when I climbed it in 2004 was a mess of rotten ice and loose rock from ABC to Camp 1 (as a result of a dry winter) and from there is a (mostly) straightforward snow climb with a couple of short steep snow/ice sections.
Ama Dablam on the other hand is largely a rock climb/scramble from C1 to C2 and above that mixed rock, snow and ice but much more technical and 'airy' than Pumori.

If I were to choose one over the other, definetly Ama Dablam.
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Postby radson » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:09 am

I should have been more specific and stated that I had already climbed Ama Dablam and was considering Pumori as my next objective. Looks like I will give Baruntse a bash now.
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