I would like to thank everybody for the information provided on SP and especially Corax for the personal care
We spent 5 days acclimatizing around Las Grutas. Yesterday morning we had planned to leave our high camp at 5400m (on the east side) at 4am. Too much wind (even though we were on the east side... we switched from the north ridge to the east side when we arrived on site) and too much cold to start that early... we still wanted to climb so we started late (almost 10am) when the conditions got better. We made it to 6000m, then decided to go down, it would have taken another 4h (I think) to reach the summit, and already 1pm.
Very sad not to have made it to the top, because we felt fit and acclimatized.
We cannot always win, can we !?
We loved the area. Definitely worth going back at some point.
FYI : at the moment, no snow under 5800m ! We had to carry 24 liters of water (3 people for 2 days). You can imagine our load !! Luckily we had found a guide with a 4x4 who took us up to 5050m. A big thank to Marcello Brandan for the memorable ride on the slopes of Incahuasi !