New Zealand November/December 07

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Oceania and the Pacific Islands. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Oceania Climbing Partners section.
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dadndave
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New Zealand November/December 07

by dadndave » Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:44 am

I'm supposed to be there right now but my two intended climbing partners couldn't dodge work commitments.

Plan B required. Anyone interested in going to Mount Earnslaw (45km North of Queenstown) in November/December this year? I might also consider a winter ascent if anyone's keen.

I'm planning the normal route via Kea Basin and Wright Col to the NE face. Not much more than a scramble in summer conditions. (More challenging routes available above Esquilant Bivvy if desired). If time and the right partners permit, I also have a plan to finish a historical attempted route that, as far as I know, has never been completed.

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supermarmot

 
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by supermarmot » Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:57 am

i'm going to be in nz from ~dec 5--jan 5... i'm going to visit my sister, but she'll be working a lot of the time... which means free time:) keep me posted on this.

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ktnbs

 
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by ktnbs » Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:18 am

Hmmmm, I am making a note of this.

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dadndave
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by dadndave » Sat Jan 20, 2007 7:27 am

I PM'd you, supermarmot.

2nd highest in Aspiring NP and highest in Otago, ktnbs. Can you be tempted after having having done Aspiring?

Earnslaw has some nice history. WS Green tried to climb it in 1882 via the very long and undulating SE ridge. (Green claimed the first ascent of Aoraki/Cook some weeks earlier but he did not actually summit). I think the entire SE ridge route may still be unclimbed although it's upper parts have been climbed after traverses from the north side. I'll try and get this confirmed. Could be an FA available for some intrepid SP'ers.

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by Danbaker » Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:10 am

Hey DadnDave, how's things? I hope u r well. Dan here...have been off the radar for a while with work taking over my life... I've forgotten my old logon too so had to do a new one - can't edit any of the pages etc i had up here either....grr oh well.

I have made a pact / new years resolution not to let work rule my life so much and so plan to get out there and hit it again (haven't climbed in about 12 months). Looking at NZ next season, want to jump on a TMC (again). I'll let you know once dates are firmed up but I might be able to join you on an Earnslaw assault around the end of the year.....

oh i have a new email address too: danielbaker@aapt.net.au

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birdhead

 
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by birdhead » Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:46 am

I'm going to be in NZ in mid to late November for my honeymoon. I'm looking for some good one day scrambles or peaks to climb. Either the north or south island is okay as we will be visiting both and I'll be spending some time near Queenstown, Mt Cook, Taupo, etc. Any suggestions from those people in the know would be appreciated. Can I do something like the Tongariro Crossing in mid November with no technical gear? Are there good peaks to scramble in a day with nice views in Mt Aspiring NP or near Mt. Cook?

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Danbaker

 
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by Danbaker » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:42 am

HI,

Mueller hut and mt ollivier are a great one dayer or overnighter if you like. It is not technical so you won't need tech gear. It offers great views of mt cook and the main range on a good day and also right infront of mt sefton. Check out my page on mt ollivier here in sp (though it is under my old login for which i have forgotten th password lol).

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Goldie_Oz

 
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by Goldie_Oz » Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:12 pm

Mate where do you start?? If you're down on the West Coast of south island, Mount Fox (check out Howie's page on this site) is some good exercise up a rough track (~6-8 hours return) with marvellous views of Cook/Tasman from the west. Roy's Peak (also on this site) is an easy-moderate hike up from Wanaka with gorgeous views of the surrounding area/Mt Aspiring on a clear day (more strenuous - and worthwhile - is the through route over Mount Alpha). Avalanche Peak (day walk from Arthurs Pass) is a solid day circuit with an airy summit and great views. Isolated and rugged Mount Burns/Eldrig Peak from Borland Saddle just north of Lake Monowai gives a good overview of Fjordland proper without having to hike in for days. I could go on but I'm late for my pub session - for West Coast/Otago/Fjordland you can't go past Moir's Guide North and Moir's Guide South, plus speak to DOC in any city/town/ditch for ideas and for maps www.nztopoonline.linz.govt.nz or the regular NZ Topomaps at your local mapshop.

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by zenalpinist » Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:20 pm

Goldie_Oz wrote:... Avalanche Peak (day walk from Arthurs Pass) is a solid day circuit with an airy summit and great views. ...


I second Avalanche Peak as well. Awesome loop makes for a long day, but well worth it. Watch out for the Kea, they tried to make off with the rubber trim off the top of our car. I got some great shots of some on the summit, I'll have to post those.

-B-

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birdhead

 
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by birdhead » Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:27 pm

Thanks for th suggestions everyone. Keep 'em coming... :)

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Danbaker

 
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by Danbaker » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:51 pm

I third Avalanche peak. Great little trip for a couple of hours. I reccommend going up the steep track (can't remember if it is called scots track) and back down the not so steep one. Fantastic views and Arthur's pass is a top spot!!

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Goldie_Oz

 
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by Goldie_Oz » Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:26 am

Danbaker wrote:I third Avalanche peak. Great little trip for a couple of hours. I reccommend going up the steep track (can't remember if it is called scots track) and back down the not so steep one. Fantastic views and Arthur's pass is a top spot!!


...definitely. Go up the steep track that starts at the bottom of the village, come back down Scott's track what heads off to your left when coming down from the summit.

There are also a couple of good strenuous untracked peaks further up the Matukituki with fabulous views of the Aspiring Massif if you like a good scramble - Niger and Blacks in the West Matuki and Dragonfly and Sisyphus in the East Matuki. Also worthwhile for a day is Mount Alfred/Ari near Glenorchy (which happens to be the single most beautiful place on earth) - it's only 1400m but the track up the west side is a good wheeze and the views of the Routeburn area/Dart/Earnslaw are unbeatable. In fact, it's mandatory go to Glenorchy even if you don't climb anything (this picture does it no justice whatsoever: http://www.summitpost.org/image/190862/151587/mount-earnslaw-pikirakatahi.html)

Excuse me but I must get a cloth now to clean up the rapidly accumulating pool of drool on my desk here.
Last edited by Goldie_Oz on Wed Mar 07, 2007 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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lalpinist

 
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mee too

by lalpinist » Wed Mar 07, 2007 12:01 pm

i'm hoping to be there jan-feb 2008. lots of good ideas here ...

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dadndave
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by dadndave » Tue May 01, 2007 5:28 am

A good one dayer is Mt Armstrong from Haast Pass. You can park your car and within 100 metres you're on your way up (after crossing the river - every NZ climb starts with wet feet :D ) Park at the Brewster Hut trail sign just north of the summit of the pass. Not technical at all but offers great views across the cirque to Mt Brewster andf Mt Topheavy. The final 100 metres is a bit like climbing on broken dinner plates if there's no snow. Mt Armstrong is the peak straight above Brewster hut.


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