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1st time Chamonix climbing

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Postby kong » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:32 pm

Dear Bird:

We are in a small group of 3-pax to Koskulak during August 7-19.

Or join any of my groups to Muztagh ata in July and August.

Email: climb7546@yahoo.com.cn
climbing@126.com
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Postby climbxclimb » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:45 pm

I went there last summer for the first time.....it is a climbing paradise....for rockclimbing there is tons of of bolted crags in the valley one just on the side of the road near a nice lake before you get to the center of Chamonix, it is called Gaillands Area. Some easy route 5.4 as well as 5.8, 5.9 about 2 pitches.
Near Argentiere there is another area where there are longer routes 5 to 6 pitches ranging form 5.4 to to 5.10 all bolted, check out the pictures in my profile. While you climb you have a beautiful view of the valley and the Aguille Verte.
Of course there is a lot to do in alpine setting, like the south face of Aguille du Midi , but that is harder suff...
There is a lot more than this....
For Ice I would not have to much hope...last year I was hoping to do some of the north faces but with global warming not anymore....this winter season was a very dry one out there therefore I am sure there will be nothing to do in terms of pure ice climbing or snow climbing...Beside seracs .....houch.....
I will be there in the beginning of July, maybe I will see you there...
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Postby MichaelJ » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:20 pm

Tons of pure, moderate rock routes around the Cham. valley. Ag. Rouge could keep you busy for several days. The Cham. Ag. are a bit more alpine in setting but popular routes will be very crowded. Go as early as possible if you want any chance at ice. There are a number of good guidebooks available all around the town with topos, etc. One excellent source to get a handle on the area is Gaston's Mont Blanc Massif: 100 Finest Routes, which would be a good idea to try to find before you leave although I didn't have any luck locating a copy before my trip last year. Have fun.
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Postby JScoles » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:58 pm

Great place to start but with only one week you could end up doing nothing because of weather.

You best bet would take a 100% flexable attitude and play it as it it comes. Ther is lots and lots and when some big route is out of condtion you can bet there is a smaller one that is in.
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Postby mountaindog » Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:50 pm

JScoles wrote:Great place to start but with only one week you could end up doing nothing because of weather.

You best bet would take a 100% flexable attitude and play it as it it comes. Ther is lots and lots and when some big route is out of condtion you can bet there is a smaller one that is in.


Great advice, have spent too much time at a tent in the valley waiting for it to clear up.

Tons of great routes in your range. Since its your first time, take a look at Aiguille du Peinge, L'Index, Midi Cosmique Arete, Midi Frendo Spur (if conditions are right), heaps of climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges, Dent du Geant, Tour Ronde, etc.
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Postby Charles » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:16 pm

And if you´re in the Refugio Torino wanting to do Dent du Geant and the Tour Ronde don´t forget about the Dome and Aiguille de Rochefort.
If you´re fit what about the Blanc? I was there last September for a week and got it in.
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cham jam rocks

Postby tonyscotland » Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:13 pm

8) cham is the place to go for all round adventure, great place to visit, no downside except for crinking your neck alot as you walk through the town centre looking up at the midi station :lol:
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