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Guide Services For Fitz Roy Area

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Guide Services For Fitz Roy Area

Postby Dave Daly » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:57 pm

Sorry....I started a thread awhile ago but I couldn't find it. Anyway, Debbi and I are planning a trip to Patagonia in January of 2008. We want to enjoy Patagonia the best we can in the limited 2 weeks we can afford in vacation time. Our desire is to get in some techical rock (weather permitting) on shoulder of Fitz Roy via the Aguja Guillaumet (involves a 55 degree couloir for the approach and several pitches of 5.8/5.9 climb. Here's a shot at one of the pitches:

Image

Additionally, we'd like to do some glacier travel and crevasse rescue training, just to enhance our experience there. Lastly, we'd love to do some trekking with the guide (not all of it.....we want to experience Patagonia self-propelled as well). Of course, checking out the coast glaciers and the penguins would be a big plus! Oh, yeah.....some great Argentine food and lots of Malbec!

Any recommendations?? Your input is much sought out!!
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Postby bolojm » Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:09 am

Dave, a good friend of mine was down there about a year ago and hired a guide. I'll talk with him tomorrow and get back with you. Sounds like an awesome experience!! Thats a sweet looking crack! I have yet to meet an Argentine Malbec that I do not like, also.

Edit:

Here is what my friend, Jeff, has to say:


On the glacier group trek, we had a guide, Sergio, from an outfitter in Chalten - Fitz Roy Expediciones. They are considered the top dog in the area. There was another outstanding guide, Horatio, staying at base camp and giving personal guide service to some fellow of notoriety. All their guides have made ascents or at least attempts up Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.
Just trekking around, no need for a guide. The trails are well marked and the hiking is pretty easy. Also, there is enough traffic so if something happened, you wouldn't get stuck for long. I did a hike up Pliegue Tumbado by myself and no worries.
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Postby Dave Daly » Wed Jun 20, 2007 12:49 am

Thanks bolojm! I've been emailing one of the guides (Manuel Quiroga) down there who manages the El Chalten Mountaineering Guides. He's got some cool ideas....right down our alley in regards to techical climbs we would be intetested in, including the one displayed above in the picture. Here's what he had to say in one of emails:

Aguja Guillaumet is a great option! The approach is aprox. 6 hours with 1000 meters elevation gain (3000 feet). There we'll bivy, then get a 2 AM alpine start. After 600 meters (1800 feet), we'll be at the base of Couloir Amy, a 60 degree ice/snow gully with one mixed move on the top. Some people say is WI3. A lot of fun!! Once at the top of the couloir, we'll put on rock shoes and climb 2 pitches of 5.5, then two 5.9 pitches and the last one 5.7. Then its 4th class terrain to the summit. In good weather conditions, this needle is great! The views from the top are just breathtaking!! Bad weather conditions, you can only go up to the top of the gully. If weather will be in our side, 3 days should be more than enough.
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Postby Andino » Wed Jun 20, 2007 12:01 pm

Hi there,

I'm not familiar with climbing in the Fitz Roy area.

However for hiking you will have the best view of the whole range for the "Lomo del Pliengue Tumbado" (SE of Cerro Torre). Perfect spot to see Cerro Torre and Laguna Torre, and for sunrise you will get some unique perspective.
For sunrise over Fitz Roy I suggest you to sleep in the Camp Laguna Capri (or walk up there early in the morning).

The best of the best for a longer journey is the Ice Cap round trip through Paso del Viento. You need 6 days, good weather conditions, some skis and a guide preferably. Check out this video : http://www.andescross.com/video_512.wmv
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Postby bolojm » Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:36 pm

It sounds like plans are starting to shape up, and it is never too early to get psyched for the trip. I'm psyched for you two!!
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Postby Dave Daly » Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:09 pm

Thanks man! Now, it's the logistical stuff that needs to start happening: tickets, travel bags, personal equipment, building firm itinerary.

Took a look at the new Huey Duffel from Black Diamond. Sure like the concept of the RhinoTek fabric....knowing that the airline will certainly treat our baggage like crap! Marmot has a cool travel bag with wheels called the Endless Road. Hmmmm....choices to make. Still need to work out his guiding rates.
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Postby Deb » Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:22 pm

Darling, the Army duffels are only $22........hold up pretty well too. :)
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Postby Buz Groshong » Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:16 pm

I gotta agree with Deb: cheap canvas duffels are the way to go. You don't have to worry about the airlines ruining them. Scuff 'em up a bit and put some duct tape on 'em and you don't have to worry about anyone trying to steal anything out of them 'cause they look like they aren't holding anything worth stealing!
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Postby Dave Daly » Fri Jun 22, 2007 4:29 pm

Key thing to remember for all husbands:

"The wife is always right!" Well.....most of the time. :D
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Postby bolojm » Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:29 pm

And an advantage to those duffels is that they are "relatively" light weight. Some of the new fangled gear duffels that have wheels, handles, etc weigh upwards of 10 pounds themselves, which means 10 fewer pounds of gear to take with you. And WTF is up with the 50 pound weight limit on checked luggage, anyway? Not very climber friendly. :evil:
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Postby MichaelJ » Sun Jul 15, 2007 11:50 pm

bolojm wrote:And an advantage to those duffels is that they are "relatively" light weight. Some of the new fangled gear duffels that have wheels, handles, etc weigh upwards of 10 pounds themselves, which means 10 fewer pounds of gear to take with you. And WTF is up with the 50 pound weight limit on checked luggage, anyway? Not very climber friendly. :evil:


Really? Two checked bags at 50 lbs each equals 100 lbs, which I found adequate for a six week trip to Peru, including ice and rock gear, two tents, a few liters of gel, two ropes, camping gear, etc. It´s also about the limit of what I can drag by myself through an airport, onto a bus, cram above a collectivo or atop a buro.
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Postby bolojm » Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:05 am

Yep, not very climber friendly, especially when the limit used to be 70 pounds per bag.
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