by axelandr » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:44 pm
I'm reviving an old topic, since this might be a relevant question for many newbies, as it was for me when I did Mont Blanc last May.
As the original poster, I had very limited time - I got to Chamonix just in time to rent my shoes Sunday evening, and met up with my guide early monday morning. We then used half a day learning crampon-technique, glacier-travel and crevasse-rescue(yes, very limited, but at least some basic principles where discussed) and then we climbed the Cosmiques-ridge later that day vefore once again descending from the L'Aguille du Midi to spend the night at the Cosmiques hut.
After an early start, 1h30, we found ourselves at the summit approx 6hrs later, after traversing Mont Blanc de Tacul and Mont Maudit, by whats known as the Trois Monts-route. We went back down the same route, and gathered a substansial number of vertical meters that day, but took the cable car down at around 15h00.
I was back on my train to Paris at 16h45, and arrived there 6 hrs later, having spent less than 40hrs in Chamonix.
Yes, in the aftermath I can very well see it was ambitious, but my plan going there wasn't to summit Mont Blanc at all. I only asked my guide if he was willing to try it (if conditions allowed) late the first day. I had reserved him for 2 days anyway, so I guess he didn't mind and he was well equipped.
The point I'm trying to make, is that if the weather allows you, it might be very well possible to make such a speed ascent, even for a newbie. In that sense you shouldn't just shrugg off the original posters desire to do so. (Then again, I have seen far worse answers than in this thread, but for someone new to the forum, some might seem a bit harsh at first glance).
Not to mention I did this in early May, when almost everybody is skiing the mountain and "it is not recomended" to do it by feet. And yeah, I had never put crampons on before either. So I would say it's very much doable in a short time-frame.
On the other hand, being a bit more experienced now than before this venture, I would most def use more time the next time. Acclimatize more and profit from that to enjoy the climb more than last time. It was waaay hard and way strenuous, but putting yourself into hard situations like that make you more experienced.
Anyway..
Alex.