by Haliku » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:11 am
by 1mvertical » Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:41 pm
by Athos791 » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:46 pm
Haliku wrote:JDragavonDahl wrote:No wind, no clouds, and a meteor shower happening the whole time.
Thanks for the update. Looks like next week will be fun! Cheers!
by Haliku » Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:57 pm
by Haliku » Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:00 pm
1mvertical wrote:Still deciding if it's worth the effort, but does that thing look like skiing would be ok? Would like to drop from the crosses, then off the rim through lookers left of the labyrinth. I plotted a line in '06, but January was way icy. I have had this theory that Oct/Nov may be the sweet spot. Not chasing blower powder, but would like to avoid blue water ice and the like. More importantly, would the labyrinth chutes hold an edge?
by Athos791 » Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:53 pm
Haliku wrote:Just got back from the hut last night and we are in Tlachichuca next to the church looking at a beautiful mountain now. My team of 6 all made it.
The hut is getting busy now that climbing season is kicking in. There were 22 in the hut last night with a few outside and a team of 5 at 15k camp. We ran into several SPers at the hut.
Conditions are excellent. We summited at sunrise yesterday with a full moon to guide our way. The route is in good shape.
Section 1: Hut to 15300 feet - numerous switchbacks up the scree slope. The crux of the climb. If possible scout it out before to speed up the climb at night.
Section 2: 15300 - 16200 feet - two options here. Stay on climbers right and go up a small valley to a buried glacier and climb the minor headwall. Better right now is to cross the ridge into the labrynth keeping the ridge on climbers right. Snow levels are lower than my past visits allowing crampon snow climbing from 15550 to the glacier edge making this the faster route.
Section 3: 16200 - summit - Beautiful hardpack snow for crampons. Steep but no rope really needed saving you pack weight. Aim farther right to the point where the summit line starts to level out on the ridge. About half way up the slope is a staircase of steps switchbacked into the glacier making for fast climbing. A wand with faded tape marks the start of the steps so look for it.
All elevations are approximates. The crater rim is snowy but no issues accessing the true summit. The metal crosses are now exposed as mentioned a few weeks ago they were buried.
New pics and updated Orizaba and Malinche pages soon to come. Cheers!
Edit: If you have any specific questions feel free to PM me.
by Haliku » Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:52 pm
Haliku wrote:Section 1: Hut to 15300 feet - numerous switchbacks up the scree slope. The crux of the climb. If possible scout it out before to speed up the climb at night.
Section 2: 15300 - 16200 feet - two options here. Stay on climbers right and go up a small valley to a buried glacier and climb the minor headwall. Better right now is to cross the ridge into the labrynth keeping the ridge on climbers right. Snow levels are lower than my past visits allowing crampon snow climbing from 15550 to the glacier edge making this the faster route.
Section 3: 16200 - summit - Beautiful hardpack snow for crampons. Steep but no rope really needed saving you pack weight. Aim farther right to the point where the summit line starts to level out on the ridge. About half way up the slope is a staircase of steps switchbacked into the glacier making for fast climbing. A wand with faded tape marks the start of the steps so look for it.
by ScottyP » Sun Nov 23, 2008 5:25 pm
by skotty » Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:38 am
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