I'm looking for information on this route. Secor(The High Sierra) describes this route between the U-notch and The Doors of Perception, as 5.6. It climbs,"...the obscure, obtuse open book above and right of the bergschrund of the U-Notch Coulior."
Secor also mentions the rock as being light gray.
Has anyone done this? How easy is it to find? What is the quality of the rock? Anything else you want to pass along?
Well I'm glad to hear those pics are not recent, it looked awful. I'm heading up there in October to see how it is. We'll take the ice gear with us and hope for the best. If the route is no good, the back up plan is to climb the Swiss Arete on Mount Sill.
Chief - mucho gracias, I think I see what the objective hazard you are talking about, above the route.
Does the Doors of Perception have a similar hazard?
We're going next week, and the Swiss Arete is our first choice. I've done North Pall via U-notch and from the W and was looking for an alternate route w/similar difficulty.
I recommend that you get on the Swiss A and enjoy yourselves. It is a far safer climb with hardly any potential for rock fall.
The DR is a fun straight forward 2-3 P Old Skool 5.6-8 corner route that I did ten years ago in the very early Spring when the shit up high was frozen. Again, this it is a formidable & sustained Old Skool Steck/DR line that should not be taken lightly.
Chief, just to make sure I got you, your beta is on Doors of P. The Northeast butt is lookers left of Doors and roughly merges with the top of Doors. From your photo NE butt has the same loose, talus above it as the Doors route, from which your cautionary comments derive.
Am I reading this correctly?
In any event, I've decided to talk my partners out of NE butt for this fall. We hope to have a fun time on SA on Sill.