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Yosemite

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Postby John Duffield » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:52 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:That's good news! (I thought they came down after Labor Day weekend) I was thinking a friend of mine might like to go up there with me for a look see.

DMT


Ha ha!!!! Lolli!!!
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Postby Hyadventure » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:28 pm

I climbed snake dike on Saturday. The cables were up. It’s the easiest .7 I’ve been up. I’m a 5.8 trad leader like you, but I’m not at all freaked out by slab like so many others. I was able to class 2 the majority of the 7th and 8th pitches. There are some airy traverses, and most of the dike doesn’t take pro, but all the crux moves either take pro or have a bolt. I climbed in approach shoes, with a small rack of cams and slings. I lead 1,3,5 and simu climbed 7 & 8. 11 hours round trip, which included 2 hours wait to get on route, but I’d plan more time (12 to 14); the others in my group were very strong hikers/climbers.
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Postby fatdad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:43 pm

OMG, you waited TWO hours to get on Snake Dike?! That just seems crazy, but I guess the unfortunate thing is that if you've already done the hike, you're kind of committed.

Anyways, I think dr has gotten remarkably few responses to his original question, so let me offer the following:

Harry Daley Route, 5.8, 2 pitches
Bishop's Terrace, 5.8
Lots of one pitch stuff at Knob Hill
Nutcracker, 5.8 (it's about 5 pitches, but hey, it's the Nutcracker)
Jamcrack Route, 5.7 (1st pitch only)
Pine Line, 5.7
Little John, 5.8 (3 pitches)
Commitment, 5.9 (3 pitches with only a couple moves of REALLY soft 5.9 that you can yard past)
Snake Dike is well worth doing if time/conditions permit
Munginella, 5.6 (3 pitches)
After Six (5.6, 3 or 4 pitches)

Lots of other stuff at that level, especially at Manure Pile, but I'm just blanking right now.
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Postby Hyadventure » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:01 pm

We left the valley at 10:30 thinking everyone would be on route by the time we got to the base. When we arrived at the base, before 1:30, there were 3 teams waiting and one just off the deck. We didn’t get on route till about 3:15. The climbers that had just gotten off the ground apparently left the valley at 5 am. This was my first time climbing in Yosemite.

Nice list; I'm printing it for my next trip to the valley.
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Postby fatdad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:06 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:
fatdad wrote:Lots of other stuff at that level, especially at Manure Pile, but I'm just blanking right now.


Actually not so much. Yosemite has very little quality to offer the sub-5.8 leader.

That's why the same beginner routes get mentioned over and over. There's only a handful worth recommending.

DMT


By lots, I meant a few other routes like Jump for Joy, C.S. Concerto, etc. Not a ton, but some. And you're right, when making my list I had to think pretty hard about shorter 5.8 and under routes. Not many.
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Postby rpc » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:12 pm

fatdad wrote:OMG, you waited TWO hours to get on Snake Dike?! That just seems crazy, but I guess the unfortunate thing is that if you've already done the hike, you're kind of committed.

Anyways, I think dr has gotten remarkably few responses to his original question, so let me offer the following:

Harry Daley Route, 5.8, 2 pitches
Bishop's Terrace, 5.8
Lots of one pitch stuff at Knob Hill
Nutcracker, 5.8 (it's about 5 pitches, but hey, it's the Nutcracker)
Jamcrack Route, 5.7 (1st pitch only)
Pine Line, 5.7
Little John, 5.8 (3 pitches)
Commitment, 5.9 (3 pitches with only a couple moves of REALLY soft 5.9 that you can yard past)
Snake Dike is well worth doing if time/conditions permit
Munginella, 5.6 (3 pitches)
After Six (5.6, 3 or 4 pitches)


Commitment to Selaginella (sp?) makes for a nice outing.
Braille Book if it's not too cold/shitty weatherwise (it's a tad off the valley floor).
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Postby Diggler » Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:06 am

Pine Line- .7 (bring offsets if you have them)
The Grack (right?)- .6- splitter hands, a lot of fun.
Munginella- fun .6 (stiff for a .6, I thought)
Harry Daly- .8
Bishop's Terrace- perhaps the best 5.8 hand crack in the Valley- .8
Ejesta- .8 (if I remember correctly)- great hand jams.
After 6- .7
After 7- .8
Nurdle- heady .8

I'd be hesitant to recommend Braille Book for a .8 leader- solid Valley .8 above sometimes sketchy pro'. Note I've only done the 1st pitch, but the remainder appears to be similar. Need to go back & do that one, though...

If you're proficient, Royal Arches is an AMAZING climb (.6 or .7- depends on which guidebook (read: old school .6, most call it .7 these days...). Put this one high on your list, & MOVE FAST. You can easily rap' this (by doing this you skip the last pitch), or if you're feeling adventurous, do the North Dome Gully descent (don't slip, & don't do it in the dark)

Better stick the crux mantel on Nutcracker- you can't pull through it on gear, & if you don't stick it, hope you have insurance for the resulting ankle injuries. :wink:

Nob Hill has numerous nice lines .6 to .8 (& a one-move wonder .10b with a bolt right at the crux)
Last edited by Diggler on Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Diggler » Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:07 am

Hyadventure wrote:I was able to class 2 the majority of the 7th and 8th pitches.


What does this mean exactly? '3rd classing' is going ropeless. Just curious...
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Postby Luciano136 » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:18 am

squishy wrote:I have attempted class three routes with just my feet, it's fun and you can laugh at others who need to 3rd class it...


...untill you fall on your ass :D

I really want to buy that t-shirt that says: "It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious" :lol:
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Postby Hyadventure » Wed Oct 07, 2009 7:32 pm

Diggler wrote:
Hyadventure wrote:I was able to class 2 the majority of the 7th and 8th pitches.


What does this mean exactly? '3rd classing' is going ropeless. Just curious...


It means I walked up! I'd call the crux's on those pitches class 3, but if you fall on those easy moves you might not stop until the base of the climb.
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Postby dwhike » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:20 pm

Just posted my first article, honoring John Muir, titled Walking with Mr. Muir. I'd be honored if a few of ya' came by and checked it out! Hey, this might be the first time I've been on the California thread...nice place you have here! :D
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Postby Buckaroo » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:04 pm

I climbed all of Braille Book and didn't think it was sandbagged at 5.8. But it is not a gimme either, and is sustained and intimidating looking. Kind of tricky routefinding just to get to the base but not too difficult once on the climb. Stellar route though. The best 5.8 in the Valley IMHO. The summit of Upper Cathedral too is one of the best also, a Japanese garden to the max.
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