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Suggestions for a destination

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Suggestions for a destination

Postby MRoyer4 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:17 pm

I'm looking to take a month long trip in June '10 and am looking for a destination(s). I've done a bit of research, but things just seem to circle around and around. So, I'm looking for recommendations. Here are the (preferred - its hard to meet all) criteria, in somewhat significance based order.

1. Alpine climbing
2. Prefer snow/ice/mixed to purely rock climbing
3. Routes generally in condition in June, some flexibility either way is possible
4. D to TD range
5. Cost, hopefully around/under $2,000 for all expenses (happy to live on the cheap (i.e. camp instead of hotels, cook instead of restaurants, etc). Willing to fly worldwide or in US, could also drive within the US.
6. Generally would prefer lower altitude (<4500m) to higher altitude in order to focus on more technical routes, rather than just getting up there.
7. Not the Cordillera Blanca (it fits, but I've been there the past two seasons)

Fire away...even if it doesn't fit, I could probably be easily convinced.
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Postby bird » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:33 pm

Bolivia.
Cascades
Ruth Gorge AK
Chamonix
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Postby xDoogiex » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:44 pm

The deadly MT. SUNFLOWER!!!666
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Postby MRoyer4 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:04 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. I've researched three of the four fairly heavily. My partner for this trip and I were set on Chamonix until the Dollar weakened in the last few weeks. Flights have already gone up 30% and my partner predicts the exchange rate will continue to get worse (he's in financials). Anyway, a few questions I had following my research.

bird wrote:Bolivia.


Looking at the guidebook (don't know which one, and I realize guidebooks aren't everything), I didn't see many hard climbs. Mostly AD stuff. I didn't know if this was just due to lack of steep faces or what. Anyone have some good route suggestions?

bird wrote:Cascades

Didn't think June was a good time for snow/ice there. Will look into it further.

bird wrote:Ruth Gorge AK

Climbs like Ham and Eggs on Mooses Tooth are exactly what I'm looking for. However, what are the chances of getting good conditions in June (50/50? 75/25?). Seems that May is preferred. Anyone with experience climbing in the area in June?

Thanks again.
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Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:49 pm

MRoyer4 wrote:
bird wrote:Cascades

Didn't think June was a good time for snow/ice there. Will look into it further.


June is good for snow/ice routes on the volcanoes for example:

Rainier: Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge
Baker: Colman Headwall, North Ridge
Adams: Adams Glacier

MRoyer4 wrote:
bird wrote:Ruth Gorge AK

Climbs like Ham and Eggs on Mooses Tooth are exactly what I'm looking for. However, what are the chances of getting good conditions in June (50/50? 75/25?). Seems that May is preferred. Anyone with experience climbing in the area in June?
[quote]

June is considered late for the snow and ice routes in the Ruth Gorge. April-early May are better.
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Postby bird » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:54 pm

Some climbs up by Kahiltna (mini moonflower north coulior?) might be better in June...
Cabeza de condoriri and Huayna potosi have some D routes I think. Never been, but I keep planning on it...
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Postby Damien Gildea » Thu Oct 15, 2009 1:29 am

MRoyer4 wrote:Looking at the guidebook (don't know which one, and I realize guidebooks aren't everything), I didn't see many hard climbs. Mostly AD stuff. I didn't know if this was just due to lack of steep faces or what. Anyone have some good route suggestions?


M

Plenty of harder stuff in Bolivia, the Yossi Brain guide is only very basic. Southern / eastern side of Illimani has some harder routes - recent ones by Japanese look good (check the AAJ online) and another by Bruce Hendricks.

West face of Illampu quite good, a couple of couloirs, including the hardest alpine route in Bolivia (Alpos Secret) and maybe room for one more.

East side of Illampu and Anchohuma also good, though approach is harder than the usual west side. A couple of older photos at:
http://www.windmillweb.info/climbing/Co ... cident.htm

Also check out Pico Shulze and Tiquimani (sp?).

D
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Postby Wastral » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:06 am

Waddintong has plenty of routes in that range you are looking for. Did I mention its mostly all granite? Nice beautiful Clean granite? The Waddington Guide by Don Serl. It might add up to more than $2000 though if you fly in via Helicopter, depends on how many are in your group. July wouuld be better than June. June is doable though. My bro and I are going to Waddington area, but we are boating in and walking in. Adds 2-3 days each way. But we weant to do Marcus then Waddington so... Walk 2 days from helicpter or save the money and bike 1 day and bush wack 1 day and viola.

Brian
Canada: Wishbone arete Robson is in shape in June. Maybe a bit too much to chew though?

Damien Gildea wrote:
MRoyer4 wrote:Looking at the guidebook (don't know which one, and I realize guidebooks aren't everything), I didn't see many hard climbs. Mostly AD stuff. I didn't know if this was just due to lack of steep faces or what. Anyone have some good route suggestions?


M

Plenty of harder stuff in Bolivia, the Yossi Brain guide is only very basic. Southern / eastern side of Illimani has some harder routes - recent ones by Japanese look good (check the AAJ online) and another by Bruce Hendricks.

West face of Illampu quite good, a couple of couloirs, including the hardest alpine route in Bolivia (Alpos Secret) and maybe room for one more.

East side of Illampu and Anchohuma also good, though approach is harder than the usual west side. A couple of older photos at:
http://www.windmillweb.info/climbing/Co ... cident.htm

Also check out Pico Shulze and Tiquimani (sp?).

D
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Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:10 am

xDoogiex wrote:The deadly MT. SUNFLOWER!!!666


Oh, Jesus Christ. ( :


Forget the Ruth Gorge in June. That side of Denali is really bad that late in the season. You can expect daily rainstorms, extremely shitty snow conditions, lots of crevasses, and you will have to climb at night to take advantage of cooler temps. Been there, done that, barely survived.

The Cascades wouldn't be such a bad idea if it weren't for the rain. It's still rather wet in June. Bring good tents, rain gear and leave the down bags at home. The rock is crumbly volcanic if you're looking at the big peaks, but you can find nice granite in other parts of the range.

The southern Rockies (Colorado) really don't have a lot of mixed alpine routes in June. I've only been to the Tetons in the northern Rockies, you can find some nice mixed routes there at moderate altitudes. I'm not familiar with the Wind River range except I've heard that the approaches are lo-o-o-ong.......

Now up in New England..... oh, never mind.

Which leaves us with... THE SIERRAS! Spectacular scenery, moderate altitudes, infinite numbers of peaks and routes to chose from, great access from the Owens Valley and U.S. 395 on the east side. You have your choice of pure rock (Yosemite, Tuolomne), alpine peaks, glaciers, couloirs.... The conditions can be rather winter-like early in June if a big storm moves in, but if you ski BRING YOUR BOARDS!!!!!!!! In June in the Sierras you can ski, cross a glacier, climb some ice and do a spectacular rock climb in one day and sleep back in town and drink beer and play foosball. Or, you can fill your pack with as many days of provisions as you can manage and spend 2 weeks above treeline in the High Sierra.

One last place to consider are the magnificent Buaboos. June is going be wet, and it is mostly glacier approaches to rock routes, but the alpine scenery is unmatched.

I don't think June is a good month for alpine climbing anywhere in north america.
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Postby WouterB » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:21 am

You could easily survive a month in the Alps for a lot less than what you have to spend. Especially since you're willing to compromise on comfort. Flight might cost you, but if you book early enough, you'll get a good deal. Leaving you plenty of money to climb for a month. There's plenty of routes :wink:
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Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:33 pm

Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:in the Sierras you can .. cross a glacier


Bwa ha ha ha!
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Postby MRoyer4 » Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:10 pm

Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:I don't think June is a good month for alpine climbing anywhere in north america.

Sadly, that's generally the conclusion I came to and the reason I posed the question to SP. I was hoping maybe I looked over something.

So the Sierra in June has a legitimate chance of having fair to good conditions in the couloirs? Or does that take a rare set of weather conditions? Any specific climbs that anyone could suggest(for a snow/ice couloir) just to give me a general idea?

WouterB wrote:You could easily survive a month in the Alps for a lot less than what you have to spend.

This still might be possible. I found flights today for about $600, a few days ago it was closer to $1000. The exchange rate is just killer (currently at 1.5 USD = 1 Euro), but I got Rebuffat's 100 Finest Climbs yesterday and, well, its very persuasive.


Thanks for the info everyone. I've been constantly checking SP pages and getting guidebooks from inter-library loan (enough that the librarians know what books are for me when I walk in the door), but it's much easier and more valuable to get concise opinions from locals. Keep them coming if there are any more out there.
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Postby WouterB » Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:51 pm

We can fly to NY for € 300. So you should be able to get cheaper flights. Exchange rate will be bad, but if you don't consume too much over here, you'll be fine. Take the bus, cook your own food and it won't be a problem. Keep a look out for these stores:
Image
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Postby welle » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:14 pm

I'm pretty sure Tetons climbs stay in well into July... No glacier crossings, plenty of camping options and if you need some luxury like bath and kitchen, Teton Climbing Ranch is a cheap place to stay.
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Postby Hotoven » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:23 pm

What about the Canadian Rockies? I don't know much about them, but I would think they might fit the bill. I could be wrong, I have never been there.
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