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President - Yoho Peaks

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President - Yoho Peaks

Postby sshankle » Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:11 am

Looking for a little beta on the President and Vice President for my first Canadian climb.

1. What is the best time to catch the President glacier in good shape? Right now, I'm thinking mid July. I've read that the bergshrund can get impassable. Maybe there is a way around it?

2. In the pic below, anyone know anything about the couloirs to the east of the president glacier?

Thanks for any help!

Scott



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Postby Steve Larson » Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:32 am

Depends on what you consider "best". When that occurs can vary dramatically year-to-year, but I'd say July would be fine. August would also probably be fine. A good source of beta is the mountain conditions reports the ACMG puts out. You can sign up for them on the ACMG web site. It's also possible to peruse back issues (back to July 2005) to see what previous years have been like.
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Postby sshankle » Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:15 pm

Steve Larson wrote:Depends on what you consider "best". When that occurs can vary dramatically year-to-year, but I'd say July would be fine. August would also probably be fine. A good source of beta is the mountain conditions reports the ACMG puts out. You can sign up for them on the ACMG web site. It's also possible to peruse back issues (back to July 2005) to see what previous years have been like.


Thanks Steve! I'll wasn't aware of what I could find at the ACMG, I'll check it out for sure.
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Postby Bill Kerr » Thu Oct 22, 2009 5:29 pm

The last few years the schrund is best bypassed on the right as stated by Dow in his route page or trip report.http://www.summitpost.org/route/164986/north-glacier-ii.html

Start on left side moraine and then cross over to right side for usually better snow. Watch rockfall off President face but can bypass the schrund on right just below col.

Some recent pics and trip report from a friends site. http://www.explor8ion.com/vern/mountaineering/presidents/presidents.html

take care

Bill
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