Q1: My understanding is that we can acclimatise to altitude more easily the more times we go on an expedition. Is it true, and any recognised reading available?

Q2: I've read that we lose acclimatisation at the same rate we gained it.
"10 days after returning to sea level, we have lost 80 percent of our adaptations." http://www.elbrus.org/eng1/high_altitude1.htm

Whilst I felt that I have, is there any evidence of retaining an increased "base level" of acclimation for a long period?

My experience is that you do in fact "learn" to acclimatize faster after more trips to higher altitudes. Don't know if it is really your body becoming better at it or you just learning tricks to help you acclimatize. My guess is that there is at least some of the first.

Don't know about your second point. My acclimatization seems to last longer than "the rate I gained it".

RayMondo wrote:Whilst I felt that I have, is there any evidence of retaining an increased "base level" of acclimation for a long period?

I assumed there was as we were joined by quite a few Olympians when we lived at 6400' during our race years. I know that we did not even want to spend the night before a race at sea level if we were heading down for a race. Much better to get up early and descend.

My experience is that it is still random regarding repeat visits to altitude.

Ed Visteurs says he get better with more trips. Ed Hilary got worse.

Personal experience:

1) The more trips I take, the quicker my body seems to adjust.

2) I remain at least partly acclimated for a week even if I was just out for one day.

Totally unscientific, but I think there is a *psychological* component here:
Once you know the pain/pleasure of altitude, you can better anticipate the difficulties.
In other words, all that extra-hard breathing, etc. is well-anticipated, and that helps one cope.

splattski wrote:all that extra-hard breathing, etc.

Eh, heh heh heh. Oops! I shouldn't try and send this to PnP!

edit: actually to stay on-topic I should add that my experience is fairly random. My only real altitude related difficulty came on a fairly low backpacking trip.

Seems totally random for me and my son. But since every trip is a little different as far as the length of time it takes to fly somewhere (delays, lack of rest, poor diet and hydration while flying, etc), difficulty of the approach, the altitude at which you set up various camps. I would think that all of these nuances probably factor in.

BeDrinkable wrote:

splattski wrote:all that extra-hard breathing, etc.

Eh, heh heh heh. Oops! I shouldn't try and send this to PnP!

edit: actually to stay on-topic I should add that my experience is fairly random. My only real altitude related difficulty came on a fairly low backpacking trip.

Carefull you two, I will have to attach you to my SummitPorn Article...LOL

To get this topic back on track...
If a person retains their altitude conditioning longer than "10 days= -80%" then the first question is answered. Depending on how frequent the expeditions are you are already semi adapted to the altitude. Remember that extra red blood cells do not die off due to returning to lower altitude. They are cycled out of the body over time.

Personally after 15 days on Denali (with 3 months training in CO before) I was then at sea level for almost two weeks. I came back and climbed several 13ers. While my partners were breathing hard I was talking non stop telling them about the trip while climbing at the same time. In short I didn't even notice the altitude or get winded. Take it for what it is worth. The body is so dynamic this topic can't be answered in two questions or a few paragraphs. Cheers!

RayMondo wrote:Q1: My understanding is that we can acclimatise to altitude more easily the more times we go on an expedition. Is it true, and any recognised reading available?

Q2: I've read that we lose acclimatisation at the same rate we gained it.
"10 days after returning to sea level, we have lost 80 percent of our adaptations." http://www.elbrus.org/eng1/high_altitude1.htm

Whilst I felt that I have, is there any evidence of retaining an increased "base level" of acclimation for a long period?

Thanks Haliku