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What’s your “go to” J-tree route?

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What’s your “go to” J-tree route?

Postby graham » Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:36 pm

With the Josh season getting under way, do you have a fav J-tree route that keeps calling your name particularly at the end of the day when it gets hard to think of which last route to do :?:
I love doing RML at Echo Cove. It's the only route I've ever done that requires a "kip" to get over the lip, really fun!
Plus the chain anchors make for a quick exit and the approach is massively short :)
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I know there's lots of fun "go to" routes out there, so what’s yours :?:
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Postby Guyzo » Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:03 pm

When I am tired, "The Beaver"......... 8)

NOT.

End of day, "The Eye"......

new folks, first time at Josh..... "Headstone, left side...."

new folks, first time climber .... "Upper right ski track".....

best quality, show off climb.... "Young Lust"......
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Postby graham » Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:40 pm

Guyzo wrote:When I am tired, "The Beaver"......... 8) ..
Free solo….no doubt :D
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Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 pm

The Real Hidden Valley is pleasant before sunset...if the crowds have thinned out some. "Run For Your Life" is a true gem, 5.10b face with a spectacular finish, and a great view on top. It's on the Tumbling Rainbow Formation. Also in the RHV is "Illusion Dweller, an absolute Josh classic, a fairly stiff 5.10b.

Leaving for home, headed toward the town of Joshua Tree, it's hard not to stop first and put a TR on "Coarse and Buggy." Crux is remarkable, spread-eagled stemming, 5.11b. Also has sustained hand-jamming, up the last third of the route. It's on Dihedral Rock. (I've heard the lower section is protected with tiny wireds, on lead.)

Futzing around and having a beer at Trashcan Rock was also a tradition, just before you'd exit. I'd always do "Ripper" a couple times, an excellent 5.11 boulder problem and overhanging crack. From there, a 5.5 offwidth leads to the top. Easy to solo. Or try leading the short but excellent "Butterfly Crack." It's a tad harder than it looks, at 5.11c.

For beginners or 5.7-5.9 climbers, just trust the guidebook's star-rating system. There's a whole lotta routes out there that ain't worth doin, and a long hike to get to 'em.

~~steve
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Postby SpiderSavage » Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:39 pm

Near the end of a good warm day, I like to finish myself off on Gunsmoke.
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Postby ksolem » Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:58 pm

Go to, end of the day (not the days objective,) or perhaps the warmup at the start of the day: Heart and Sole...

Funny, Coarse and Buggy has gone from .10d to .11b since I've been climbing at Josh...

Illusion Dweller from .10a to Stiff .10b...

Butterfly Crack is much harder now, unless your very tall, than it used to be due to ground erosion under the start.

Gunsmoke on a warm day? That spot cooks, I go there when it is just to cold to actually climb...

:wink:
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Postby ksolem » Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:20 pm

John... The Birdman.

I saw him there once last year, but I don't hang at The Smoke like I used to. I mean how many times can you go back and forth and back and forth and...

Sorry - almost did a Victor Borja there... :wink:
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Postby bajaandy » Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:21 am

Steve1215 wrote: "Run For Your Life" is a true gem, 5.10b face with a spectacular finish, and a great view on top.


Ha! You just made me remember my first date with that climb. I was at the top pulling the mantel when one of my feet popped. Both hands were on the top, so I wasn't going to fall, but I slammed my chin right on the top of the rock. Split my chin and dripped blood all over the place while I was setting up the belay. Still have the scar from that one.

GO to? I dunno... I sure like Big Mo. (But doubt I could get past the first crux now...)
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