The Real Hidden Valley is pleasant before sunset...if the crowds have thinned out some. "Run For Your Life" is a true gem, 5.10b face with a spectacular finish, and a great view on top. It's on the Tumbling Rainbow Formation. Also in the RHV is "Illusion Dweller, an absolute Josh classic, a fairly stiff 5.10b.
Leaving for home, headed toward the town of Joshua Tree, it's hard not to stop first and put a TR on "Coarse and Buggy." Crux is remarkable, spread-eagled stemming, 5.11b. Also has sustained hand-jamming, up the last third of the route. It's on Dihedral Rock. (I've heard the lower section is protected with tiny wireds, on lead.)
Futzing around and having a beer at Trashcan Rock was also a tradition, just before you'd exit. I'd always do "Ripper" a couple times, an excellent 5.11 boulder problem and overhanging crack. From there, a 5.5 offwidth leads to the top. Easy to solo. Or try leading the short but excellent "Butterfly Crack." It's a tad harder than it looks, at 5.11c.
For beginners or 5.7-5.9 climbers, just trust the guidebook's star-rating system. There's a whole lotta routes out there that ain't worth doin, and a long hike to get to 'em.