What is the general consensus when it comes to buying used climbing gear? I've heard of people poaching cams and nuts off trad routes, but I've also heard that buying used gear from friends or online can be sketchy. Are there some guidelines that can help me cheaply fill out my gear closet?

I think, as a general rule, if your life depends on it, I wouldn't buy it used.

Other items, such as clothing, boots, ice axes, tents, etc. I like buying used.

If your life depends on the gear, don't buy it used. Ropes, harnesses, protection pieces and carabiners.

The exception might be that you know and trust the person you are buying from.

I understand the need to get the gear you need inexpensively. Discount retailers on the web, and store sales are a good way.

Ropes, sure. Harnesses, sure. Even 'biners that may have been dropped... but passive pro doesn't degrade nearly as quickly. I'd think large hexcentrics, nuts, and (maybe) cams could be safe second hand... to say nothing of belay devices.

Then there's helmets, crampons, etc...

Am I crazy?

I've bought lots of used gear over the years - mixed results. I am confident in my ability to assess hardware... once its in my hands. Assessing hardware on eBay is harder to do with accuracy.

Consider that at least some of the used gear (if not most) offered on eBay is stolen... (and some of it may have been stolen from me).

Its the largest fence operation in the US.

DMT

if I talk to the seller, ask for pictures, and stuff like that I'd feel comfortable buying passive pro or maybe some cams, but be prepaired if you get screwed over, inspect all the gear when you get it, and if it's suspect sucks for you. you probably won't get your money back. the good thing is most climbers arn't inherrintly bad people, they usally won't diliberately try and screw you over, be it your wallet or life. just use common sense and you should be fine.

Not worth the headache and possible disaster for a bit of savings. Unless you really know the guy, I really wouldn't do it.

When once I was laid off my jobs and had to somehow pay rent, I put up an ad at the local CSUS and a buyer came along. He got a great deal, with about $100 worth of hardware for $17. Distress sale, back about 1974. A selection of pitons, chocks, and vintage gear. Don't know what he did with it, but many MLC SC sport climbing gear on their packs and elsewhere, it proves they are the experts, at least by them, and to gullible beginners. My bolt kit went too, which I regret for the damage it then might have done (I never placed any bolts except on a home makeshift climbing wall).

I think you may now have to exercise some judgement on who you sell to, it could be a beginner to be used dangerously or stupidly. The MLC SC had a variety of used ropes, and they decided to sell them. Also, the AC had a big fire sale of ice axes and such back when we had to get rid of them (insurance). A Thunderbird ax for $5. They sold out quickly, and many people got great deals. I was going to sell an old rope to a person who would have gotten a real steal, but as he would never use it, except to perhaps impress people, he then figured it wasn't worth it.

By my training, you never buy used ropes from anyone. They don't care what happens to it and you, and in the worst case, you may not be around to say what that seller did to you. Ropes are rated to hold only after 3-4 falls by the IACC (?), and then if they break, they have already done the rated job. Many people don't know that. With the liability waivers and all, they might stick you with some defective gear and declare no responsibility. An over used rope may show no visible damage. They can break, as I've seen. Save yourself and do not spend for used ropes. It's not worth it. And there can be defective nuts, cables, biners, and such, too. They say the buyer beware. I supported my local climbing shop, when we had one. It all helps the economy.

As several others have stated, it is perfectly fine to buy used gear.

I would never suggest that anyone buy items such as ropes, webbing or harnesses without a huge measure of trust in the seller; that is, you should probably never buy the aforementioned items (used) from anyone other than your mother, and even then you're taking a chance. I mean, she says she loves you, but she could be jivin' you too.

Passive pro is cool to buy so long as you can fondle it in your hot little hands and inspect it for frayed wires and general integrity. Cams should be inspected for frayed cables, deformity, cam integrity, sling condition, etc. Pro used for clean climbing is generally going to be in good shape, while the same pro used for aid and alpine takes a huge beating - aid pro gets bounce tested; alpine pro gets pounded into icy cracks.

Aluminum biners are generally good to go, so long as the gate pin(s) is/are in good shape, the gate opens and closes without sticking, the lock (if any) works well and the body isn't bent out of alignment in any way. Generally speaking - and despite the enormous amount of misinformation on the Intardnet regarding the topic - aluminum biners are okay even if dropped, so don't worry too much about it.

Bottom line? It's your call entirely. It's your ass that's going to someday hang from it. While I've indeed bought used gear from time to time, paying $6 for a new nut, $45 for a new screw, and even up to $100 for a new cam is still a pretty inexpensive investment in the insurance policy we call a rack.