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Europe Big Walls

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
 

Europe Big Walls

Postby matthewtraver » Wed Oct 05, 2005 4:04 pm

Hi there,

I was wondering if anybody has any information on big wall/long aid-climbs in Europe? I'm just looking to do repeats for now. Anything in the range of grade IV, V or VI and no more than A3.

I've heard that Mont Qualido is not so much a hot spot for European aid climbing as most of it is now freeable. I've heard of other routes within the areas of Spain/Italy that hold some grade V routes on clean granite. Any help here?

If anybody can provide me with some info. it would be greatly appreciated. Whether it just be a name of a peak, a guidebook, a website, a contact or beta/ideas from your own personal experience in Europe.

Cheers,

Matt Traver
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby signorellil » Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:49 pm

Get in touch with Valerio Folco, one of the foremost big wall specialists in Europe (also, he has done several tough walls in the States, like Reticent, Tempest, etc). His website is

www.valeriofolco.com

the email is

info@valeriofolco.com

Valerio has opened several new, technical grade V in the southern Gran Paradiso area (Orco Valley). Ask him for topos and info, he's always available to help.
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby Gabriele Roth » Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:04 pm

Qualido (<a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/photo_link.pl?photo_id=90200&object_id=2751&type=mountain&mountain_id=2751&route_id=">here a pic</a>) is in Val di Mello, see my <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/2751">Val Masino</a> page, and its <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/display_component.pl?type=component&mountain_id=2751&route_id=&component_id=37447&object_id=37447">Val di Mello</a> section where you can find the link to a site hosting all the info
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby Simon-W » Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:06 am

You should consider Norway, tons of rock, much of it unclimbed and it has the famous Troll Wall, Europe's highest rock face although I think recent rockfall has rendered many of the routes on this face as danergous.

Stick a post on www.ukclimbing.com if you want more info on Norway, there are some guys who have climbed there who post on it.


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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby matthewtraver » Fri Oct 07, 2005 11:28 am

Thanks for the help so far guys.

Feel free to post some more advice!

Cheers
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby Diego Sahagún » Sun Oct 09, 2005 1:55 am

<a href=//www.mountain.ru/expeditions/2004/Jannu/index_eng.shtml><b><i>Jannu North face</i></b></a>

Matt, in Spain we have <a href=//www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/1559>Naranjo de Bulnes</a> where there are routes as difficult as PILAR DEL CANTABRICO (500m, 6a, A2+ [8a+]) but it's been climbed free: <a href=//www.desnivel.es/object.php?o=5006>source</a>
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby matthewtraver » Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:46 pm

Hi Diego,

Naranjo de Bulnes definately looks like a viable option. Do you know where I could go about getting topos for all the routes on Naranjo de Bulnes? Is there a particular guidebook or internet page with more information on this wall? Also, are there any other areas within Spain you could recommend?

Cheers,

Matt Traver
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby Diego Sahagún » Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:22 am

Another hard and classic route to <a href=//www.todovertical.com/home.php?opt=res&ZonaResena=6&Resena=7>NARANJO DE BULNES: (2.519 m) - Cara O vía Rabadá-Navarro.</a> <a href=//www.landher.net/paginas/escalada.php?artID=47>More</a>

Shorter but also interesting: <a href=//www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/1052><b><i>Tozal de Mallo</i></b></a>

Just in the other side of the Pyrenees, in France: <a href=//www.sportextreme.com/phclro23531/><b><i>Pic Oriental De La Cascade, voie "Les Yeux du Cirque"
</i></b></a>

<a href=//www.escuelasdeescalada.com/ingles/portada_i.php><b><i>Crags in Spain </i></b></a>
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby Gavin Taylor » Wed Oct 12, 2005 11:45 am

A good option is Monte Brento in Val di Sarca, Italy. It it just up the road from Lake Garda and Arco. Altitude is low and the lake ensures a pleasant climate all year, so it is feasible most seasons. Roadside crag.

There is a "classic" E2 route (Via Vertigine) fully equipped and with resin bolt belays, and some other tougher stuff where you have to place gear, E4 ish I think.
All around 1400 m long, if I remember well. The routes go up an unbelievably big overhang also famous as a base jumping launchpad.
I haven't done any so far, but I have done a load of other routes underneath and it looks very impressive.

I live nearby if you need more info.
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Re: Europe Big Walls

Postby nilsn » Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:27 am

Lolli: the wall on your picture (trollveggen link) is not Trollveggen (the Trollwall), but he wall next to it - Stabbeveggen.
And it’s true as Simon-W say, lots of big rockfalls in the Trollwall the last years – and probably more to come.
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