Ever since I saw it I've wanted to climb it. It looks like so much fun and It's in Cali so I think it would be a great trip.
I looked at the report on summit post but some more info might help. First off what months could I go to avoid snow and the use of crampons and an ice axe? I'm thinking summer but I don't know if June to August is all clear of snow.
Everything I have heard is that the route isn't real defined and you can pretty much climb up wherever you like to.
Also what is the weather like on Whitney in June to August?

And I think the rack sounds pretty simple.
Any other advice would be great
Thanks

Ever since I saw it I've wanted to climb it. It looks like so much fun and It's in Cali so I think it would be a great trip.
I looked at the report on summit post but some more info might help. First off what months could I go to avoid snow and the use of crampons and an ice axe? I'm thinking summer but I don't know if June to August is all clear of snow.
Everything I have heard is that the route isn't real defined and you can pretty much climb up wherever you like to.
Also what is the weather like on Whitney in June to August?

And I think the rack sounds pretty simple.
Any other advice would be great
Thanks

Haven't done it myself, but the weather in summer is variable, I almost died on the tourist trail during a heavy T-storm, due to lack of good gear and not listening to other hikers. My take is that the routes are pretty well defined, there's plenty of topos and info around. I think there is a good descript in Croft's book, I haven't seen it myself.

I knew someone who free solo'ed it, but he said he would never do that again. Apparently the Fresh Air traverse (?) is pretty scary unroped.

1000Pks wrote:I knew someone who free solo'ed it, but he said he would never do that again. Apparently the Fresh Air traverse (?) is pretty scary unroped.

Sorry, wrong route. The FAT is on the East Face not the EB.

As for the OP, when ya get a permit let me know, I will help ya up the EB. Done it over a dozen times. Late July early Aug is a great time to do the route.

Usually August is a good month to avoid both t-storms and snow, but it depends on the year. The route is fairly straightforward. Note that you'll need a permit.

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Sorry, wrong route. The FAT is on the East Face not the EB.

Thank you for the correction. I figured someone would get that sooner or later.

Yes, weather is usually pretty good in most of summer, but you do get tropicals, and it can really pour, with wind, lightning, hail, and snow, even!

I really recommend Croft, though for the great background (he is or used to be one of the greats), and he is for real (I've seen his sign-ins) as opposed to the usual MLC SC deception. Although they claim doing similar too, but you apparently will never see a single photo of any of it--I don't know why that is.

The Sierra has the best stable weather in the summer compared to any other major mountain ranges in the lower 48. I think if you get caught in shit weather in the summer, consider yourself lucky... or unlucky if you want to look at it that way.

Peter Croft is an awesome dude and even better climber with the latter being his downfall. I really think he free solo most of the stuff in his book and therefore cannot write a good desription on the route for the roped climbers. He might have linked pitches together while soloing which leaves the roped climbers confused on many aspects of a long alpine route. This is from my experience climbing the Southeast Face of Clyde Minaret. Between four guys, we just couldn't figure what the hell he was desribing as the start of the route and beyond.

There is frequently unsettled weather in the Sierra in the 'early' season (read June, early July)- rain & thunderstorms (some dub it the "monsoon" season, which actually occurs in Asia). After that, the Sierra typically enjoy stellar weather (read: bluebird skies & moderate temp's- perfect all-day climbing weather) until the weather starts getting unsettled again, maybe mid to late Octoberish or so. Depending on the snow the range has gotten from the previous winter, it can linger in the hills for some time (indeed that's why there are a few glaciers lingering in the Sierra), but you'll probably be good to go by July or so.

I did an ascent in May- we had exceptional weather, & I didn't even use my crampons on the descent (the Mountaineers Route), although I did pull out my axe, 'cause I had it along, & of course, "just in case." Due to the traffic that the Mountaineers Route receives, we were able to mostly just descend in the boot tracks left by others (although the snow was hard, it being late in the spring- wouldn't want to try to arrest on that stuff).

Once you find the correct start on the route, it is straight-forward all the way to the top- indeed, that's probably the best thing about the line- its simplicity. I climbed it in my mountaineering boots, but obviously it would be easier to do in rock slippers. Pro' is a standard rack- can't remember exactly what we brought, but if you have a set of nuts, & maybe doubles of Camalots to #2 & one #3, you'll probably be fine (gear suggestions by Croft & Supertopo were adequate, whatever they were). The interesting thing about the crux is that it's perhaps the only place on the route that isn't well protected (Murphy's Law...). A bit thought-provoking, if your limit is 5.7, but once you're past that, it's cruiser. There are bomber belay ledges throughout the route- you can pretty much get close to the end of your rope, & once there, find the nearest huge belay ledge to bring the 2nd up on.

I'd say the hardest parts of the route are a) securing a permit to do it during the standard permit season (late May until early October, if I remember correctly), & b) finding your way up (& down) the Ebersbacher Ledges for the first time.

Anyways, I'd totally recommend the route. And while you're there, you might want to consider taking a few extra days & sampling some of the area's other classics- E face of Whitney & Fishhook Arete on Russell are both great (done them), & Mithral Dihedral, Western Front, & a plethora of other routes on Russell are supposed to be sick too (haven't done them- yet). August & September would likely be the best times to climb for the weather- conversely, they're the times that the area is the most crowded, too (harder to get permits, find camping, & you might be waiting in line for your chosen route (esp. the E buttress) unless you're up super early).

Hope this helps, & have fun!!

Great route. Good fun. Better location. In some ways nicer than the E. Face since there's less 3rd and 4th class.

The start is not that hard to find. My recollection (albeit from 10 yrs. ago) is that we started more over less at the Tower Traverse, which is pretty obvious. We did the 5.8 direct start, however, which no one ever seems to do. We used the topo in 100 Classics (1st ed.), which was accurate for the bottom portion of the route but not the upper. Go figure.

I want to say we did it in July and there was some ice at the very top of the Mountaineer's Route. We ended up rapping a short section with another party to minimize rockfall. After that it was cake.

Reserve a permit early.

Diggler wrote:I'd say the hardest parts of the route are a) securing a permit to do it during the standard permit season (late May until early October, if I remember correctly)

"Year-round, everybody in the Mt. Whitney Zone must possess a valid wilderness permit. Permits are issued only at the InterAgency Visitor Center, 1 mile south of Lone Pine, CA.

"From May 1 to November 1, all use is regulated by limited entry quotas. Permits for the quota period may be reserved in advance. Most permits for Mt. Whitney are reserved during the Mt. Whitney Lottery, in February."

http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/wild/mtwhitney.shtml

Diggler wrote:There is frequently unsettled weather in the Sierra in the 'early' season (read June, early July)- rain & thunderstorms (some dub it the "monsoon" season, which actually occurs in Asia).

I know that the Sierra Nevada do not get it anywhere near like what the Rockies get. There is quite a difference, for sure. In the Rockies, they seem to get hammered more afternoons than not. In the Sierra, I have talked to people finishing 2 weeks on the JMT in summer, and they never got rain once.

But this "thing" that is a DISTINCT seasonal wind pattern shift that brings more atmospheric moisture and resulting thunderstorms to the Southwest and Rockies, generally between early July and early September, what would you call it, if not "monsoon"? I have heard it called that for quite some time by every meteorologist who reports on the phenomenon, and I have never heard it called anything else. It doesn't seem to be a term reserved just for Asia.

Day Hiker wrote:

Diggler wrote:

Diggler wrote:There is frequently unsettled weather in the Sierra in the 'early' season (read June, early July)- rain & thunderstorms (some dub it the "monsoon" season, which actually occurs in Asia).

I know that the Sierra Nevada do not get it anywhere near like what the Rockies get. There is quite a difference, for sure. In the Rockies, they seem to get hammered more afternoons than not. In the Sierra, I have talked to people finishing 2 weeks on the JMT in summer, and they never got rain once.

But this "thing" that is a DISTINCT seasonal wind pattern shift that brings more atmospheric moisture and resulting thunderstorms to the Southwest and Rockies, generally between early July and early September, what would you call it, if not "monsoon"? I have heard it called that for quite some time by every meteorologist who reports on the phenomenon, and I have never heard it called anything else. It doesn't seem to be a term reserved just for Asia.

Whatever you want to call it, once this period of unstable weather settles down (based on my experience, this often happens through the early part of summer), the Sierra seem to (typically) have great weather, blue skies, & great climbing conditions all summer long until things start getting unsettled again in the late fall. This is in contrast to the Rockies, where spring & fall seem to have great, stable weather, & when you decide to climb in the middle of the summer in the high country, you're rolling the dice.

If the past few years are any indication, count on t-storms in the Sierra through July (less frequent in Aug). Skies are also clear in Sep, but the temps start to drop.

Do the 5.8 direct start, adds some good climbing.

There's some runout 5.6 up higher.

Croft topos for easier routes suck, but you don't really need a topo for this route.

In season, mid July-mid Sept, I wouldn't bother to take an axe and crampons. That doesn't mean you won't have to deal with some hard neve up high descending the MR. Climb with someone you trust with route-finding, and around loose rock and runouts.

Thanks guys. I can climb 5.9 confidently but I'm definitely not going to free solo it.
Chief, Thanks for the offer. I'll definitely let you know