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Hard Shell - North Face Mammatus/Mountain Guide or Arcteryx?

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marmot or arc tyrex

Postby stormflap » Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:46 am

i was just on the phone with some manufactures yesterday with similar questions. the guy at arc tyrex was quick to say they make the best jackets on the market. the alpha shells are longer (28inches) and are made to cover the hips. the beta shells are shorter (27 inches) and made to cover the waist. the actual length of almost any pro shell jacket can be found on the spec tab of each product page at rei.com. marmots alpinist pro shell is 32 inches! arc tyrex has an athletic cut as well.

i dont know much about tnf shells but...

aside from that... marmot does not use the "waterproof" zipper on the main zipper. they say they arent really waterproof and are just for looks so marmot only uses the fancy looking waterproof zipper on the other zippers of the jacket only for looks. they use a traditional storm flap over the main zipper on all of their shells.

backcountry.com has good reviews. most folks say the marmot alpinist is heavy and very long jacket. the alpinist has 32 inch length. the marmot exum as a 29 inch length.

sorry i dont know much about the tnf shells.

:roll:
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Postby stormflap » Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:57 am

im looking at backcountry and rei aplha lt product pages. rei says the back is 28 inches long and bc says the length is 27 inches long. hmmm.. maybe last year vs this years model but it doesnt say. its different for the beta shell as well. 26 vs 27 inches
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Postby MScholes » Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:19 pm

When going around in the back country, the longer shell of the alpha sv is a plus in my book, but if you're roped up in a harness... as long as the jacket reaches your waist line on the harness, the rest just becomes bulk.

Marmots are solid, and have a sturdy reputation, although I've never worn one extensively, I cannot comment on Mammuts, however, if their jackets are anywhere near the quality of their ropes, you'll be in good hands.

Rab Latok jackets have a seriously good repuation as well and unfortunetly I do not own one. You'd be hard pressed to find negative comments about the Rab and eVent no matter how hard you look. They aren't overly expensive either.
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Postby Damien Gildea » Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:00 pm

MScholes wrote: You'd be hard pressed to find negative comments about the Rab and eVent no matter how hard you look. They aren't overly expensive either.


Probably best to check over at UKClimbing.com for that. While many rave about them, there are a number of people less happy with more recent product. Fit is also an issue with them. But if they fit you they are nice, simple, light jackets and have been quite popular in the UK. If they don't fit you, then maybe something like the Crux Flak jacket would be better.

As for eVent, I like it, but there are issues with cleaning and associated reduction in breathability, and these may increase as more people use it for a longer time. Many people don't actually use their jackets that much, so such things don't become obvious for a long time, by which time it's easy to justify buying a new jacket.

D
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Postby divnamite » Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:28 am

pinityoufairy wrote:OK,

have spent the past week looking into this a lot, it seems that the alpha sv is great.

also, has anyone had any experience with any MAMMUT jackets?

a guy in a shop said i was mad to get goretex stuff as it doesnt breath well, it just has a very popular name. mammut doesn't use event either, it has it's own stuff, but apparently it is awesome.

specifically a jacket called the Fitz Roy. http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/101007650_v_1083_L/Fitz+Roy+Jacket+Men.html

If you want your jacket to breath well, get eVent, like Rab clothing. Mammut makes good stuff, I use its Laser softshell jacket for EVERYTHING. I think any of the Arcteryx, Mammut, Rab will serve you well.
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