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Winter Montaineering in the Sierra

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Winter Montaineering in the Sierra

Postby KurdishKlimber » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:57 pm

Hi,

I am looking for suggestions on winter climbs in the Sierra that could be accomplished in 2-3 days.

Thanks,

Farzin
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Postby Augie Medina » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:13 pm

One option is Mt. Whitney via Mountaineer's Route.
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Postby jspeigl » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:36 pm

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Postby 1000Pks » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:41 pm

There is no reason that any Sierra peak that I know of can't be climbed in winter or anytime. You can have avy hazard, but slopes are pretty much stable between storms and warm spells. Just need the good gear and determination.

An old pal of mine sought to do the hardest peak in the dead of winter, and so he attempted Mt. Goddard (13,568') several times, to succeed twice. All on skis from both west and east sides. You might even get a first if you can do your research and confirm with pix and whatever, though most will question potentially doctored photos or the fact about being a winter ascent in truly winter conditions.

If you seek good ski peaks, I used to do that, though not very many. Most people won't bother. The registers most likely will be mostly buried in snow, so you can't sign in or read it.

I had a great time skiing into Mt. Lyell (the highest point in Yosemite) and then summiting, one early April, with one questioning the date, even. There's lots of peaks to ski in the far more accessible Northern Sierra, and the weather is more mild.

One big peak with great views can be ridden to the top, done by millions, I presume--Mammoth Mountain (11, 053').
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Postby travelin_light » Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:09 pm

Some ideas:

http://pullharder.org/2007/10/01/possib ... er-climbs/

GO visit the South Face of Lone Pine Peak. Things like the Winter Route and the more difficult Winter Chimney are awesome. I tried Dyanamo-Hum (the HUGE corner system) last winter. We made up to the massive roof via ice, mixed and rock climbing but it had gotten too warm and by mid-day and everything started falling down so got the hell out of there. I think we waited too long in the season. There was definetly some ice up there though - would have been spectacular at the top.
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Postby Diggler » Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:56 pm

The Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag has been done in the winter. It's likely that it hasn't seen one since- this looks exciting & extremely interesting!

SP's own Misha (& Pavel?) did the E ridge of Russell in either the winter or spring- this looks challenging & fun too.

Long Valley, used to access Bear Creek Spire in the summer, is frequently skied in the winter- there are numerous peaks lining the valley- don't know the difficulty or avalanche danger on those slopes, but access is less of an issue than with other areas (the chief detractor from winter climbing in the Sierra, I'd say).

Yosemite Valley or Glacier Point road are excellent access points for higher locations in the winter, due to the lack of access restrictions (i.e. the roads are open to get there).

Don't know where you are, but Shasta & Lassen also make great winter climbs, conditions permitting.
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Postby bobpickering » Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:37 am

Here is a list of the highest peaks I've climbed in the winter:
Mt. Whitney
Mt. Williamson
White Mountain Peak
North Palisade
Starlight Peak
Mt. Shasta
Mt. Sill
Mt. Russell
Polemonium Peak
Split Mountain
Middle Palisade
Mt. Langley
Mt. Tyndall
Mt. Muir
Thunderbolt Peak
Mt. Humphreys
Norman Clyde Peak
Mt. Agassiz
Mt. Darwin
Mt. Winchell
Mt. Tom
Mt. Carillon
Mt. Gayley
I climbed the technically easiest routes on each peaks except for Sill, Polemonium, North Palisade, and Thunderbolt, which I did from the Palisade Glacier.
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Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:27 pm

Palisades are awesome in winter.
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Mammoth

Postby Deleted User » Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:57 am

Attempted a winter climb of Mammoth Mountain (wanted to climb up and take the gondola down) and they wouldn't let me on the mountain without a lift ticket and insurance (apparently their insurance covers customers/employees on skis/boards, but not climbers). Basically a no-go...
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