by rhyang » Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:23 pm
by SpiderSavage » Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:48 pm
by ksolem » Wed Dec 30, 2009 5:38 pm
phlipdascrip wrote: ...I have never heard of anyone having to down-climb who wasn't soloing.
by phlipdascrip » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:31 pm
ksolem wrote:phlipdascrip wrote: ...I have never heard of anyone having to down-climb who wasn't soloing.
My experience is the opposite. I have downclimbed while leading many times as have my partners. Often the retreat is followed by a successful attempt with the knowledge gained from the first go.
I do not recall ever downclimbing on a solo, or seeing a soloist take a step back. I did, once, stop in my tracks while soloing and go through a serious "get my sh*t together" episode but that's another story...
by ksolem » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:50 pm
phlipdascrip wrote: the other reasons mentioned here sound more like opting for it over rapping though.
As for soloing, Alex Huber soloed a route on the Grand Capucin (Mt Blanc massif) in 2008 I think it was which doesn't have an easy descent, so he down-climbed the entire route he came up on (UIAA VII or so). I've also read more than once about soloers who got stock and had to climb backwards.
//EDIT: What I meant is you're basically always choosing to down-climb over leaving gear behind (to rap from), as I doubt there's never an alternative to down-climbing - except for when you're soloing. Or isn't it?
by Tom Fralich » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:58 pm
by ShortTimer » Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:54 pm
by ksolem » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:29 pm
Tom Fralich wrote:...leaving the second stranded at the lower anchor while the leader arranges the rappel is a bad idea.
by dan2see » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:12 am
by gregorpatsch » Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:05 pm
Tom Fralich wrote:In my opinion, the best solution for the problem in the OP's question is:
1) Build a bomber anchor wherever you can
2) Belay the second up to that anchor
3) Begin a rappel retreat from the route
No one has stated this explicitly. Sure, the lead climber could rig a rappel from the bail point without bringing the second up. But if the leader is more than half a ropelength out, the second would need to untie from the rope and the leader would have to arrange another rappel anchor before reaching the second. In my opinion, no one should ever be out of contact with the rope on a multi-pitch climb...leaving the second stranded at the lower anchor while the leader arranges the rappel is a bad idea.
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