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Rock pro in Huntington Ravine?

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Rock pro in Huntington Ravine?

Postby Greeneggs » Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:12 am

Planning a 4 day climbing weekend in Feb and wondering aside from ice screws and pickets, what rock pro (and size) I should rack up (cams, pitons, nuts, etc)? May climb a few different gullies and routes in the ravine and want to be prepared for any of them. Thanks!
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Postby Brad Marshall » Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:55 am

I've only used ice screws (4-5) and pickets (1) in Pinnacle, Yale and Damnation Gully. I've taken a set of rocks, #3 to 8, but never used them. If you look closely there is some rock protection left in place by the local guides (Pinnacle and Damnation).

Have fun and safe climbing.
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Postby bdynkin » Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:05 pm

Brad Marshall wrote:If you look closely there is some rock protection left in place by the local guides (Pinnacle and Damnation).


Don't count on fixed pro in February - most likely it will be under ice/snow. Screws and pickets shoud be all you need in February although a few nuts/cams is OK to take along just in case.
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Postby Greeneggs » Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:07 pm

Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated. At least for my first gulley ascent, I'll probably take a piton or two, a couple of cams and a few nuts to put my mind at ease.
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Postby Autoxfil » Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:25 pm

http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/produc ... ICE-PITON/

No experience placing rock pro in the gullies, but this thing is what you want for frozen-together chossy rock like shows up a lot in the Whites. When the ice won't take screws and the rock won't take nuts, both will take this. Having one on your rack can take a load off your mind in tight spots.
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Postby brokesomeribs » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:11 am

Autoxfil wrote:http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/1329/BLACK-DIAMOND-SPECTRE-ICE-PITON/

No experience placing rock pro in the gullies, but this thing is what you want for frozen-together chossy rock like shows up a lot in the Whites. When the ice won't take screws and the rock won't take nuts, both will take this. Having one on your rack can take a load off your mind in tight spots.


A Spectre will only put your mind at east if you're foolish enough to actually believe it will hold. Craig Luebben couldn't get one to hold much more than 5 Kn (about 1200 lb-f) in his testing. Make sure to use a screamer and pound the ever-loving $h!t out of it.
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Postby Autoxfil » Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:38 pm

brokesomeribs wrote:
Autoxfil wrote:http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/1329/BLACK-DIAMOND-SPECTRE-ICE-PITON/

No experience placing rock pro in the gullies, but this thing is what you want for frozen-together chossy rock like shows up a lot in the Whites. When the ice won't take screws and the rock won't take nuts, both will take this. Having one on your rack can take a load off your mind in tight spots.


A Spectre will only put your mind at east if you're foolish enough to actually believe it will hold. Craig Luebben couldn't get one to hold much more than 5 Kn (about 1200 lb-f) in his testing. Make sure to use a screamer and pound the ever-loving $h!t out of it.


Is that in his Mountaineering Handbook? I hadn't seen that testing info, but it's good to know. I do bury it to the hilt and use a screamer, like most ice placements.
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Postby brokesomeribs » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:25 pm

Autoxfil wrote:
brokesomeribs wrote:
Autoxfil wrote:http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/1329/BLACK-DIAMOND-SPECTRE-ICE-PITON/

No experience placing rock pro in the gullies, but this thing is what you want for frozen-together chossy rock like shows up a lot in the Whites. When the ice won't take screws and the rock won't take nuts, both will take this. Having one on your rack can take a load off your mind in tight spots.


A Spectre will only put your mind at east if you're foolish enough to actually believe it will hold. Craig Luebben couldn't get one to hold much more than 5 Kn (about 1200 lb-f) in his testing. Make sure to use a screamer and pound the ever-loving $h!t out of it.


Is that in his Mountaineering Handbook? I hadn't seen that testing info, but it's good to know. I do bury it to the hilt and use a screamer, like most ice placements.


It's in his "How To Ice Climb" book. I bought it a couple months ago on Amazon for $7. It shows up at my door, I open the front cover, and it's signed by the man himself. I was a bit floored. RIP Craig.

I just double checked - page 155 has the results. Most began to lever out at 400lbs. The weakest failure was at 600 lbs, with a couple making it up 1600 lbs. The major qualifier, however, is that they were in ice. Not turf, frozen dirt, etc. I have not seen any quantitative testing for those.
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