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Glacier on Gannett

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Glacier on Gannett

Postby gwave47 » Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:22 pm

I'm probably going to attempt a solo of Gannett in Mid to late August. I don't know how comfortable I feel going solo on glaciers. I noticed from a lot of pictures and topos that it appears you can navigate around the glaciers in late August. What's the possibilities of gaining the summit of Gannett Peak without setting foot on glaciers. What grade of climbing would the mountain present to avoid glaciers.
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Postby Doublecabin » Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:06 pm

I'm not much a Mountaineer anymore but I think you would often find the surface of a glacier infinitely more benign for travel than the gargantuan talus [boulder fields] you'll find at higher elevations in almost any range. I live in the Dubois area much of the year and know many people doing Gannett try and time it when certain ice bridges are still sound. Exum Guides do some Gannett trips, maybe someone there could give you intel?

You're going at a populat time of year. I'd put something up in plans and partners and at backpacker.com if you wanted company.

Thanks for spending your vacation in Greater Yellowstone.
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Postby Bill Reed » Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:07 pm

First off, I'll say that I have not climbed Gannett so take this response for what it's worth. With that said, I have never heard of anyone climbing Gannett without crossing at least one glacier. And I'll add, in my opinion, not a good place to be going solo.
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Postby jeep1212 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:17 am

Well, I climbed gannett solo last august via titcomb basin. I had no rope, ice axe, or crampons. My plan was to turn around if it got to sketch, but it didn't. I made it across the glacier no problem and then a little scramble to the summit. I dont think u can climb this mountain without crossing a glacier, but in my opinion, you dont need to avoid the glacier. 1) the is a faint boot stomped trail to follow 2) the crevasse danger is minimal 3) its august, all the crevasses are open. there are no bridges or anything like that. If i were you i would give it a shot via titcomb, if you get nervous turn around, but i think you will find it doable.
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Avoiding glacier travel on Gannett

Postby Paul Burkholder » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:42 am

If you plan to climb Gannett via Gooseneck Ridge/Gooseneck Glacier (the most commonly used route):

Coming in from the north (Dubois or Ink Wells via Glacier Trail) most years by mid-August will be snow and ice free all the way to the lower Gooseneck Ridge. Most parties scramble up the ridge to an area just below Gooseneck Pinnacle and then make a short traverse on the Gooseneck Glacier to a short steep snow ramp that leads to the upper part of Gooseneck Ridge which then leads to the summit ridge. There will surely be one or more small crevasses between the glacier and the snow ramp. If these make you nervous, the glacier can be avoided by traversing the base of Gooseneck Pinnacle, but this will involve some easy 5th class rock climbing. If you plan to solo, pick the risk you are most comfortable with. I have always chosen the glacier/snow climb.

From Titcomb Basin, it is not really practical to avoid a somewhat lengthy traverse of the Dinwoody Glacier on your way to the lower Gooseneck Ridge. Many people make this crossing unroped but there are real crevasses and some deep moats. Soloists beware!

I have not climbed Gannett from the west (Green River) side.
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glaciers

Postby pyerger » Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:52 pm

climbing Gannett that time of year solo, is doable, but risky! Me and a friend tried labor day,08, and the crevasses were all open, and big. one slip, and thats it, your in. Going in from Green river lake, would be minimal glacier travel, but the aproach, and routefinding is more difficult. Late june or early july would be the safest solo.

Good luck.

Peter
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Postby Alpinist » Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:32 pm

I'd love to know how big the glaciers are on Gannett. Based on everything that I've read, the widely held impression seems to be that crevasses are not that deep there and the danger of a crevasse fall is minimal. Did you get good look down one of them? If so, where was it?

I think some people rope up around the steeper sections (like around the bergshrund on the Gooseneck Glacier) but I think very few parties rope up on the lower angled sections of the glacier. My 2 cents...
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Postby Holsti97 » Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:10 pm

July 16, 2007
Image
Image
Image
Last edited by Holsti97 on Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Bill Reed » Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:08 am

As is always the case, a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks, Holsti97.
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Postby jeep1212 » Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:14 pm

Image


This is what you will cross if u climb from titcomb basin. the glacier is very flat unlike the above pictures were taken on a steeper part of the glacier. obviusly a fall would not be fatal because its flat, you would just stand back up. But maybe you should just hike the 40 miles round trip and find out for yourself.
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Postby Bob Sihler » Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:30 am

Honestly, I'm not trying to be rude, but if you're not comfortable with glacier travel, you really should not consider soloing a peak known to require glacier travel.

Please consider going with someone experienced with the terrain or, I hate to say this, on a guided climb.
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Postby gwave47 » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:07 pm

It's not glacier travel that worries me. I'm not worried about falling on a steep section. I am worried about falling into a lightly covered crevasse and not being roped. I will probably just keep an eye on the plans and partners sections and see if anyone else is planning a summit in early to mid July.
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Postby 96avs01 » Sat Jan 23, 2010 10:42 pm

In late July of last year ('09) we crossed 2-3 snowbridges below Gooseneck Pinacle ridge that would be somewhat sketch solo (though we did see people glissade over them, unnecessary risk IMHO), not counting crossing the berg (but you could always stick to the rock to avoid that bridge). YMMV
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Postby gwave47 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:10 am

I am looking at all these pictures of Gooseneck Pinnacle and the pinnacle ridge, and I don't see anything that looks above class 4 or very low class 5 if you were to stay on the ridge and off the Gooseneck Glacier. Does anyone have pictures showing otherwise, is there something I'm missing. The pinnacle looks loose but there looks like more than enough room to traverse it and stay off the Glacier without adding any 5th class climbing. Again, I haven't seen it first hand, just going by everyone else's pics. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but show me some pics to back up your statement so I can understand what you're telling me.

Also, what's the elevation of timberline here in this area?
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