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Eastside options for Saturday...

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Eastside options for Saturday...

Postby WML » Mon Feb 08, 2010 4:35 am

I was looking for some info relating to the following climbs. One of my buddies and I are thinking of doing some eastsidin' on Saturday. With the weather ahead of us and what has already occurred, which of the following sounds most feasible for a single-day push (conditions dependent):

1. Mount Humphreys - East Arete - Anybody know what the snow level is outside of Bishop on Buttermilk road and how far one would reasonably be able to get up that road?

2. Middle Palisade - NE Face - As was confirmed in another thread, Glacier Lodge Road is plowed to the TH, and figuring a ski approach on this one would be optimal...good idea for a winter climb or nah?

3. Lone Pine Peak - North Ridge - Probably not on the table as much anymore, due to not being able to get too high on the ridge to start since Portal road is snowed over.

4. Carson Peak - North Face, after that is over... June Lake Roadside Ice - Any beta on Carson Peak's North Face in winter would be appreciated. As well as a not-so-extreme ski descent (read: not wanting to descend that face on skis)


We only have one day to jet down and get some climbing in so whatever recent info you guys have, or general tips on any of those routes in the winter would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks guys!
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Postby Franky » Mon Feb 08, 2010 5:02 am

As far as humphreys goes, a few weeks ago with significantly less snow than now, we made it to the horton lakes road turn off with a 4x4. Snow conditions were rough, some slopes of bottomless powder on the approach, lots of miles of road to walk. I'm sure you won't get any further than we got now, snow level is significantly lower than it was then snowline is probably about 6500, haven't driven up to the buttermilks in a few weeks.
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Postby Luciano136 » Mon Feb 08, 2010 5:06 pm

I don't know what kind of shape you are in but all of those seem extremely challenging. Middle Pal has a lot of loose rock and the face gets ice and snow in winter, so I would personally stay away from that one.
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Postby WML » Tue Feb 09, 2010 1:19 am

I keep in pretty fair shape, and have no qualms with having to start retardedly early, IE: 11pm if necessary.

So humphreys is definitely off the agenda, and LPP as well if the snow on WP road is still way low...


any and all beta or suggestions are greatly appreciated from you guys!
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Postby Luciano136 » Tue Feb 09, 2010 1:27 am

Until recently, the WP road was only passable slightly past the road closed sign. In the meantime it snowed some more, so probably no change there. I was supposed to go this Saturday as well but canceled. My idea was to do Thor Peak.
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Postby plume » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:02 am

Not to dissuade a highly motivated mountaineer such as yourself, but you'll get a lot more climbing in (one day, nonetheless) if you stay a tad lower. The Owens Gorge was wonderful today. Sunny and warm. Got in as many pitches as you get on the East Arete of Humps but with nary a cold hand or frost-nipped toes.

That all said, you'll be hitting the snow line around 5,000. Melting fast down there, but still something to consider even at the trailheads where you'll need skins and skis to make any decent time. Consider, too, the short days and long nights. Course, I am a wimp, and though each time I look up at the Pals from the outside window and I ache to be up there, I know how fast I get cold.
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Postby WML » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:41 pm

RE: the Gorge, a good idea for sure, not quite what I'm wanting to make the trip to he East Side to do. Looks like there's a potential of this turning into a Fri-Sat trip, so it may open things up a bit, but Middle Pal is still pretty appealing - Don't mind the mixed aspect of the 3rd class chute, and it should be frigid enough up there to stop the missile-like Palisade rockfall.

Anybody here have any other winter alpine route suggestions?

Thanks again guys!
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