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Solo Aid w/ the Clove Hitch?

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Solo Aid w/ the Clove Hitch?

Postby Jeeb » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:42 pm

What's the basic sequence (from one anchor to the next) of aiding a pitch solo using the clove hitch method? And is it possible with a pair of twin ropes?
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Postby Rob » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:27 pm

there's some info here...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=671226

No, you can't use twin ropes.
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Postby The Chief » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:40 pm

Take one 10-15' fall on a clove hitch and you'll seize the knot up tighter than a 2000 yr old witches nipple. You'll then have to cut the rope... trust me. Been there and done and it SUCKS!!!




Get one of these...Image

Or learn how to adapt and use one of these....Image

I use both on a regular basis...
Image

Why would you want to use TWIN ROPES?

You want to trail a 9-11mm static zip/rap line equal in length to your primary in order to jug/haul on anyway.

Counter rapping/hauling is blast and far more efficient any day....
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Postby Jeeb » Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:44 am

no offense taken. just curiosity. not planning on soloing any time in the near future whatsoever. thanks for the info.
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Postby mbmsfreerider » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:28 pm

I am not ready to solo aid either. Never actually been aid climbing at all. What is the advantage to the solo aid or grigri? Obviously the solo aid is meant for soloing and the grigri is not but the grigri strikes me as easier. Or are they simply used in different situations? I do understand that the solo aid must have rope fed menaully and the grigri doesnt require this.

Just Curious
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Postby mbmsfreerider » Mon Mar 01, 2010 4:38 am

one more thing came to mind. if you have to feed rope manually anyway couldn't you just use an atc guide or a reverso 3 in the autolock mode? I'm thinking attach the metal loop to your harness and then set it up like you would for a belay directly off the anchor. You would have to feed the rope manually just like a solo aid. The only issue i can see would be the device not being strong enough but id think it would be.
Personally the grigri with backup knots seems the best to me. It looks like it could be used for both solo aid anbd free climbing.
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Postby The Chief » Mon Mar 01, 2010 6:02 am

mbmsfreerider wrote: It looks like it could be used for both solo aid and free climbing.


BINGO!

That is why I now use a Gri Gri as my primary Solo Aid Device.

You can switch from aid to free and feed the rope easier than you can with a Solo Aid.
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Postby mbmsfreerider » Mon Mar 01, 2010 6:08 am

does this require a chest harness? It seems to me that as long as the rope sides are correct it will lock regardless of orientation or what way you put it on your harness (rightside up or upside down).

Do you use the solo mod on your grigri chief?
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Postby mbmsfreerider » Thu Apr 01, 2010 3:59 am

I have heard multiple views on using a grigri. Some say it shortropes you all the time and others say the rope whizzes through it and creates slack. I can see it changing also where it shortropes early in a pitch and creates slack at the end.
Will a grigri let rope slide through fast enough to aid or free climb at a some what normal pace without locking up and shortroping you? When thinking about this I am assuming the user is just letting the grigri hang fron their harness and isn't using a chest harness
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Postby Hotoven » Tue May 18, 2010 5:40 pm

BUMP!

I was wondering how to mod a gri gri to be able to free climb. I have looked a different web sites, and found different mods and don't know which one to use and works best. Is there a site anyone knows of with detailed photos and a good description of how to properly mod a gri gri to free climb?
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Postby Hotoven » Fri May 21, 2010 3:12 am

BUMP
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